Diseases of Schisandra and Actinidia. Growing actinidia The reason for the yellowing of shoots of actinidia seedlings

07.09.2023

Collection output:

Fungal diseasesActinidia chinensis

Agayeva Malakhat Ali

Ph.D. biol. Sciences, Associate Professor, Leningrad State University, Lenkoran

In Azerbaijan, in particular in the Lankaran-Astara zone, among the subtropical fruit crops, the most interesting and promising species in terms of size and quality of fruits is Actinidia chinensis. This is evidenced, first of all, by the natural and climatic conditions of this zone - relatively mild winters, high relative humidity and appropriate soils.

Actinidia chinensis is a perennial woody climbing vine or climbing shrub belonging to the actinidia family (Actinidiaceae) and genus Actinidia. The genus Actinidia has about 30 species, most of them have decorative and only a few have nutritional and medicinal value. In measures for the development of actinidia, it is of no small importance to protect it from fungal diseases, which can cause great damage to the crop.

According to existing literature data, actinidia is not damaged by pests and diseases, but in 2007-2011. Our route surveys of actinidia plantings in the Lankaran-Astara zone revealed that actinidia are affected by widespread and harmful diseases. Such as late blight root rot, partial damage to leaves and fruits by white and gray rot, the causative agents of which are many species of fungi of the genus Phytophthora. In our conditions, no special research has been carried out in this direction.

We studied the causative agents of actinidia sinensis diseases in private plantings of the subtropical zone of Azerbaijan, in particular the Lenkoran-Astara zone, starting in 2007. Determination of pathogens, as well as the harmfulness and intensity of disease development, was carried out according to generally accepted methods. Mycological collections were carried out during the examination of actinidia plantations. When processing herbarium materials, in a number of cases, methods of wet chambers and pure cultures were used. When identifying mushrooms, we used domestic reference literature; .

Late blight root rot, the causative agent of which is Phytophthora cactorum. 1-5 year old shoots, roots, and root collar are affected. Affected plants exhibit weak apical growth, chlorosis and leaf drop. In the area of the root collar, necrotic spots, sharply different from healthy tissue, often surround the trunk with the release of gum. Near the surface of the soil, there are brownish-black spots on the bark of the roots, covering the layer of wood. The bark becomes brittle and falls off. When the disease develops severely, the plants die. Quite often found in nurseries when watering standards are not followed. The development of the disease is facilitated by prolonged waterlogging of the soil and its weak aeration, high acidity (pH 4.3-4.5). For normal growth and development of actinidia, light soil is considered best, within the pH range of 6.5-7.5; .

The disease has an epiphytosecret nature and in years favorable for its development affects flowers, leaves, young shoots, and fruits. The affected organs turn brown, covered with a gray coating. Flowers infected with gray rot completely dry out.

Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that can damage a wide range of fruits and vegetables. On kiwi fruit, Botrytis cinerea does not damage healthy tissue, but quickly colonizes damaged, senescent or dead plant tissue. Such as: parts of faded flowers (petals, sepals, etc.), damage on stems, green leaves with spots of dead tissue or damaged, dead leaves, and sometimes damaged or fallen fruits. All of the above parts of the plant can serve as sources of infection in the future. Botrytis cinerea can also cause fruit damage during storage. Infection occurs during or immediately after harvest. Rot begins to develop at the base of the fruit, where the peduncle was previously attached, this rot develops when stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 ° C, then the damage spreads to the entire fruit. Secondary infection occurs when the fungus spreads from one rotten fruit to an adjacent fruit in a special kiwi fruit storage basket. Inside, under the skin, the affected fruit is transparent and soaked in water. The lesion ends with complete decomposition of the fetal tissue.

Botrytis cinerea survives winter as a dormant mycelium or small, hard, black sclerotium. In the spring, germination occurs, then conidia (asexual spores) are formed, which are dispersed by the wind. During the growing season, infestation can occur from pruning kiwi plants close to the ground or from other sources. By autumn leaf fall, Botrytis cinerea significantly increases the number of spores to 9600 million, which enter the soil with dead and dying parts of flowers and plants. A similar increase in the number of spores can occur on male kiwi plants before pollination of female plants. In the middle of the growing season, Botrytis cinerea is found on aging petals near the fruit and in lesions. During graft selection, green leaves with necrosis and dead leaves are the primary source of Botrytis cinerea infection of the graft material. Research has shown that hairy kiwi fruits are a natural trap for spores. And thousands of Botrytis cinerea spores have been found on the surface of the fruit. During harvest, spores on the surface of the skin infect the place where the fruit is torn from the branch, which leads to rotting of the fruit during subsequent storage.

Botrytis cinerea requires moisture for spore germination, infection, growth and sporulation. The optimal temperature for development is approximately 18 °C. The spread of Botrytis cinerea is always limited by one of the following factors: aeration or sunlight. For this reason, fruit grown under a dense canopy of foliage is more likely to be affected by Botrytis cinerea than one grown under a canopy of foliage with good sunlight penetration. Fruit that is grown in areas with high spore content will have a greater chance of developing Botrytis cinerea during storage. Access to sunlight and good aeration in the plantation, as well as good hygiene - removing sources of Botrytis cinerea spores, such as contaminated branch cuttings, are all sure ways to reduce the risk of Botrytis cinerea disease on plants and fruits in the plantation.

White rot the causative agent of which is the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. Flowers, leaves, shoots, and fruits rot. Abundant cotton wool-like mycelium forms on them. In humid weather, water droplets condense on the surface. Black sclerotia of irregular shape quickly form on the mycelium, from 0.6 to 3-4 mm in diameter, the inner tissue is white. The pathogen spreads by mycelium and sclerotia. Penetrating through the affected areas of plant tissue, the fungus causes primary infection. Sclerotia remain in the soil for a long period, serving as a source of infection. Temperatures of 15-18 °C and high air humidity (95-98%) contribute to the development of the disease.

The fungus, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, infects the flowers of kiwi plants during flowering. It causes serious losses of kiwi fruit. More than 400 plant species can be affected by Sclerotinia sclerotiorum.

There are three distinct stages of the disease. First stage, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum infection of male flowers. Sometimes you can see white mycelium on the rotting flowers of male plants. The second stage, infection of female plants during, or immediately after, the fall of the flower petals. The development of an infected flower occurs as follows: the unset fruit and its peduncle quickly rot and acquire a light brown tint. The unset fruit usually dries out and remains attached to the vine stem for several weeks or months.

The third stage is the rotting of fruits on the vine, which can occur during September, October and November. The rot initially appears as a small, pale green, soft lesion on the surface of the fruit, quite often this part of the fruit is adjacent to parts of the flower. Under constantly wet conditions, rot will progress and increase fruit damage. Changing environmental conditions or the plant's natural defense mechanisms can stop the development of rot. In this case, scars form on the surface of the fruit. Scars can be small (3-4 mm wide and up to 1 cm long) and large (1 cm wide and up to 2-4 cm long).

In winter, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum remains in the soil as special structures - sclerotia. Sclerotia are hard, black bodies that form on infected flowers and rotten fruit. In the spring, the sclerotia grow into tiny mushrooms called apothecia, and the apothecia produce spores (ascospores). Ascospores are the primary source of infection for Sclerotinia sclerotiorum. Spores exist from late October to early May, although the number of ascospores fluctuates from day to day. Ascospores land on flower petals and if conditions are favorable (warm and high humidity), infection will occur. In the fall the cycle begins again.

Warm, humid weather promotes the spread of infection during plant growth and development, especially during the flowering period of plants. Sclerotinia sclerotiorum ascospores cannot directly infect healthy green tissue, but they readily infect damaged or senescent tissue, such as falling flower petals or stamens. Once the fungus takes root in this tissue, it is able to penetrate and infect healthy tissue.

Listliterature:

1. Kutubidze V. V., Sarzhveladze G. P. Actinidia is a promising culture for the Soviet subtropics // Subtropical cultures.-1988. -No. 5. P. 1-3

2. Mkervali V.G., Chanukvadze G.N., Gogolishvili Z.A. Diseases of citrus fruits in nursery conditions // Subtropical crops. -1971.-No. 5. P. 126-127

3. Mkervali V. G. Diseases of citrus fruits. // Subtropical crops. -1989.-No. 5. P. 99

4. Khokhryakov M.K., Dobrozrakova T.L., Stepanov K.M., Letova M.F. Determinant of plant diseases. St. Petersburg, M., Krasnodar, 2003, 593 p.

5. Chanukvadze A. Sh., Sanikidze I. S., Ramishvili G. G. On the issue of frost resistance of actinidia // Subtropical cultures. -1989. -No. 5. P. 107

6. Chenkin A.F. Methodology for organizing the accounting of harmful organisms. M., 1993, 65 p.

Significant harm from Schisandra and Actinidia diseases under cultural conditions has not yet been observed.

But this does not mean that diseases will not appear. As liana crops are introduced and expanded, the composition of diseases and the degree of damage by them will inevitably increase. It is therefore important to systematically carry out preventive measures. In the taiga, actinidia are harmed by leaf spot caused by the fungus Philoxicta actinidia. Other pathogens of spotting have also been identified - ramularia and discosis. A leaf disease in the form of a powdery cobweb coating was noted on actinidia arguta. The damage caused by these diseases is similar; they are expressed mainly in leaf spotting.

Actinidia fruits are affected by fruit rot, as well as gray and green mold. The fruits of Actinidia arguta are most severely affected by rot.

Leaf spots and fruit rot were also detected on Schisandra. Its seedlings are very strongly affected by fusarium wilt, which manifests itself in the form of browning of the subcotyledonous knee, and then the death of the seedlings. This disease can cause serious harm when Schisandra is propagated by seeds.

Disease control measures include spraying bushes with pesticides and mechanical collection of damaged plant parts (leaves, twigs, fruits, etc.). For the purpose of prevention, 1% Bordeaux mixture and 0.4% cuprosan are used for spraying; The first time is treated after the buds emerge from the bark, then the treatment is repeated after 10-15 days.

Against grape diseases, spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes is used: the first - a week after flowering, the second - by the end of July, the next 1-2 times - every 7-10 days. Spraying is stopped 20-30 days before the crop ripens.

Pests of actinidia and lemongrass

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Grape

In gardens and personal plots, you can choose a warmer place for planting grapes, for example, on the sunny side of the house, garden pavilion, or veranda. It is recommended to plant grapes along the border of the site. The vines formed in one line will not take up much space and at the same time will be well lit from all sides. Near buildings, grapes must be placed so that they are not exposed to water flowing from the roofs. On level areas it is necessary to make ridges with good drainage due to drainage furrows. Some gardeners, following the experience of their colleagues from the western regions of the country, dig deep planting holes and fill them with organic fertilizers and fertilized soil. The holes, dug in waterproof clay, are a kind of closed vessel that is filled with water during the monsoon rains. In fertile soil, the root system of grapes develops well at first, but as soon as waterlogging begins, it suffocates. Deep holes can play a positive role on soils where good natural drainage, permeable subsoil is provided, or reclamation artificial drainage is possible. Planting grapes

You can quickly restore an outdated grape bush using the layering method (“katavlak”). For this purpose, healthy vines of a neighboring bush are placed in grooves dug to the place where the dead bush used to grow, and covered with earth. The top is brought to the surface, from which a new bush then grows. Lignified vines are laid on layering in the spring, and green ones - in July. They are not separated from the mother bush for two to three years. A frozen or very old bush can be restored by short pruning to healthy above-ground parts or by pruning to the “black head” of an underground trunk. In the latter case, the underground trunk is freed from the ground and completely cut down. Not far from the surface, new shoots grow from dormant buds, due to which a new bush is formed. Neglected and severely frost-damaged grape bushes are restored due to stronger fatty shoots formed in the lower part of the old wood and the removal of weakened sleeves. But before removing the sleeve, a replacement is formed. Grape care

A gardener starting to grow grapes needs to thoroughly study the structure of the grapevine and the biology of this interesting plant. Grapes are vine (climbing) plants and require support. But it can spread along the ground and take root, as is observed with Amur grapes in a wild state. The roots and aboveground part of the stem grow quickly, branch strongly and reach large sizes. Under natural conditions, without human intervention, a branched bush of grapes grows with many vines of different orders, which begins to bear fruit late and produces crops irregularly. In cultivation, grapes are shaped and the bushes are given a shape that is easy to care for, ensuring a high yield of high-quality bunches. Vine

Planting lemongrass

Schisandra chinensis, or schisandra, has several names - lemon tree, red grapes, gomisha (Japanese), cochinta, kozyanta (Nanai), kolchita (Ulch), usimtya (Udege), uchampu (Oroch). In terms of structure, systemic relationship, center of origin and distribution, Schisandra chinensis has nothing in common with the real citrus plant lemon, but all its organs (roots, shoots, leaves, flowers, berries) exude the aroma of lemon, hence the name Schisandra. The schisandra vine that clings or wraps around a support, along with Amur grapes and three types of actinidia, is an original plant of the Far Eastern taiga. Its fruits, like real lemons, are too sour to be consumed fresh, but they have medicinal properties and a pleasant aroma, and this has attracted a lot of attention to it. The taste of Schisandra chinensis berries improves somewhat after frost. Local hunters who consume such fruits claim that they relieve fatigue, invigorate the body and improve vision. The consolidated Chinese pharmacopoeia, compiled back in 1596, states: “the fruit of Chinese lemongrass has five tastes, classified as the first category of medicinal substances. The pulp of lemongrass is sour and sweet, the seeds are bitter and astringent, and in general the taste of the fruit is salty. Thus, All five tastes are present in it." Grow lemongrass

A plant with the beautiful name actinidia appeared in Europe two centuries ago. Gardeners called it a gooseberry from China, but the striking similarity in color to the small kiwi bird changed the name of the strange seedling. Today everyone knows the Kiwi fruit, but the name “actinidia” is known only to gardeners. Actinidia is grown not only for its tasty fruits, but also for decoration. Twisty shoots covered with extraordinary leaves that combine several shades of color decorate any garden. Kiwi is very unpretentious to growing conditions and is resistant to plant diseases. The plant can be planted in areas with any climatic conditions.

Plant characteristics

When characterizing actinidia, attention is paid to the following indicators:

The variety resembles a vine with woody shoots.
The flowers are white, odorless, collected in small inflorescences.
The plant is dioecious, so you need to purchase male and female shoots. You can figure out on your own what gender the plant is on the site. To do this, you need to wait for flowering and examine the flower. Some flowers have a large pistil in the center - the ovary, from which small rays radiate - these are females. Male flowers lack a pistil, but have a dense ring of stamens.
The fruits of the sea anemone are elongated, greenish in color, and rough to the touch. They ripen in early autumn. The size of the berry depends on the variety planted.

What should you consider when buying Chinese gooseberries?

Anemone can be purchased at a specialized store, but you need to ask how the seedling was grown.

A short trunk with branched side shoots indicates that the seedling was obtained from a cutting. such shoots inherit all the characteristics of the donor tree.
If the branch is obtained from seeds, then it grows from a bud. It is better not to buy such actinidia, because fruit trees grown in this way do not retain their varietal characteristics.

Next, you need to examine the roots of the young plant - they should be in a container with soil, packed in a plastic bag. Otherwise, the sun and air dry out the root system, and the plant is poorly accepted. It is imperative to purchase both a male and a female plant, but the sex of a seedling can only be determined by its flowers. This means you need to buy a cutting that is already two years old. If the tree is older, it does not tolerate transplantation well.

About planting actinidia

Experienced gardeners understand that growing a given variety depends on when the plant was planted. There are no optimal ways to plant kiwi. Gardeners take into account the characteristics of their area and the weather at a given time:

if spring planting is chosen, then it must be done before the sap begins to flow;
the summer method is recommended immediately after the trees bloom;
In the fall, you need to hurry so that the root system has time to take root, otherwise frosts will destroy the seedling.

The growth and development of actinidia depend on the composition of the soil. Acidic or neutral soils that need to be well fertilized will be optimal for it. Clay soils are not suitable for this variety. It is recommended to plant the tree in elevated areas so that rainwater does not stagnate. If there is no such place, you need to arrange powerful drainage. A bucket of brick chips is poured into the bottom of the planting hole. The next layer is a mixture of humus, charcoal and fertilizer, after which you need to pour a bucket of usually soil into the hole.

You also need to take a thoughtful approach to choosing a place to plant overseas gooseberries:

The seedling will feel good after currants, because its shoots stretch at a shallow depth in different directions and “loose” the soil.
Next to the young tree, you can plant any type of legumes that maintain the water balance of the area and help improve the microclimate.
Annual flowers - petunia, gerbera, calendula - will serve as an excellent decoration that does not consume a lot of moisture.
You cannot plant actinidia next to fruit trees, especially apple trees, because they have a powerful root system that dries out the soil.
The planted plant needs good support so that the shoots do not try to “climb” other fruit trees.
During hot periods, young actinidia need to be shaded from the sun's rays so that they do not burn the bark or root system.
The tree trunk of a planted species should not be dug up: the root system can be damaged.

Planting scheme

About two weeks before planting the “Amur gooseberry”, you need to choose a place and dig holes in the shape of a square with a side of 50 cm. The depth of the hole is 60 cm, the distance between the seedlings is about 1.5 – 2 m. You need to wait time for the soil to settle . Immediately before landing, do the following:

A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is not recommended to use small crushed stone as drainage because it contains limestone.
A bucket of humus is added to the pit, as well as mineral fertilizers - superphosphate, ash, saltpeter.
A layer of turf taken from the hole should be poured onto this mixture, or the fertilizer will burn the roots.

Remove the plant from the container, remembering to first fill the soil with water.
The removed tree must be inspected and dry and broken shoots must be trimmed. Be sure to pinch the roots and dip them in a clay mash.
After the layer of clay has dried, the cutting is placed in the center of the hole and gradually covered with earth, which is periodically trampled down.
After the hole is half filled with earth, the vine needs to be watered with three buckets of water so that it can adapt to the new soil composition.
After the water has been absorbed, the hole is completely filled with soil, but the root collar must remain above the ground level.
The top layer of soil is mulched. Straw, sawdust, fallen leaves, pine needles, and peat are suitable for this purpose.

Kiwi is a tree that is not suitable for single planting, because it is dicotyledonous. This means that next to the female tree there should be a male tree at a distance of 3-5 meters. Gardeners advise adhering to the following scheme: one male seedling for 3-5 females. If there is not enough space in the garden, you can plant male and female trees in one hole, or even better, choose hermaphroditic varieties.

About kiwi pollination

Flowers on male trees are collected in inflorescences, in the center of which there are stamens with pollen. Pollen is fertile for 5 days from the moment of flowering.

Female flowers can be arranged in different ways: singly or in small groups. In the center of the inflorescence is a pistil, which, like that of a male tree, is surrounded by stamens, but sterile ones. Therefore, it is necessary to have male and female varieties nearby. Pollination on female branches can take place within 10 days. Male and female trees tend to bloom at the same time. In order for the pollination process to occur, insects must be circling over the flowers. However, bees are not very fond of actinidia because its flowers do not produce a sweet scent. All we have to do is wait for the wind to blow. Painstaking gardeners do things differently: they pick flowers from the male tree and touch them for a second to the female flowers. The pollen from one male flower is enough for ten female ones.

Caring for planted trees

It will be difficult to care for an overseas beauty if the vine is planted densely and the shoots are not provided with support. It’s not difficult to make a support: dig in the posts and stretch the wire between them.

Further care activities will include the following:

Chinese gooseberries need moderate watering: water only if the water has completely absorbed into the soil. But the leaves love a morning or evening “shower”: spraying through a sprayer.
The seedlings need to be fed in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted. The soil around the root system should be loosened shallowly (3–5 cm) and wood ash, ammonium nitrate, phosphorus or potassium fertilizer should be scattered into it. Do not use fresh manure or fertilizers containing chlorine. After applying fertilizers, the soil is mulched.
In summer you need to monitor the root collar: if it is very exposed, you need to add soil.

Interestingly, cats like the roots of the plant. To avoid damage to the root system, it is better to cover the planted cuttings with an iron mesh.

Actinidia pruning

Actinidia care includes annual pruning of shoots:

By pruning a young seedling, the gardener forms a crown.
An adult tree grows strongly, which leads to a thickening of the crown. If you neglect pruning, the shoots will interfere with each other, causing the yield to decrease.

You can prune the vine in late spring, as soon as the color has fallen. If you prune a seedling as soon as sap flow has begun, the plant will lose many nutrients and weaken. The optimal time for autumn pruning is the end of leaf fall. It is not recommended to carry out this process just before frost, because the new buds formed are very weak. They will simply die from frost.

Before pruning, you should become familiar with the characteristics of the planted variety. So, in an adult actinidia kolomikt, one of the central shoots must be removed annually and replaced with young ones. The main vine of the Argut variety cannot be touched, but the bush must be thinned out greatly.

If the shoot has been growing for ten years, then it needs to be rejuvenated - cut off all the branches to the level of the stump. Subsequently, after 5 years, the procedure is repeated.

Winter hardiness of kiwi

Breeders have developed various varieties of actinidia that can withstand frosts above 30 degrees, but young plants need to be “wrapped” for the winter - tied with burlap or polyethylene, covered with spruce branches, and the roots covered with fallen leaves. Even if the plant survived the frost well, you need to rejoice after the threat of spring frosts has passed, because the buds and flower buds of the overseas beauty cannot tolerate the cold. A sudden frost in the spring can destroy the vine. Sometimes gardeners plant a bush near the wall of the house, believing that this will protect it from frost. In this case, rain flowing from the roof will be destructive. The water will stagnate, causing the roots to rot.

How to propagate an amazing plant?

There are several ways to propagate actinidia in your area:

The easiest way is vegetative propagation. The shoot formed from the root retains all varietal characteristics and begins to bear fruit after three years. This is how you can propagate the polygam and kolomikt varieties, but Arguta does not produce root layers.
The next method is cuttings, which is considered the most reliable among gardeners. You can use both green and woody cuttings.

Green cuttings with three buds should be cut immediately after flowering has passed. The upper part of the cutting is cut straight, the lower part at an acute angle. The cut cuttings are placed in a planting hole, at the bottom of which drainage is poured, then a layer of humus with sand. The last layer is clean sand. The soil is soaked and the future seedling is placed in it. The pit is covered with plastic film, which is kept for a whole month and raised only for watering. From the end of summer you can begin hardening. In the fall, the shoots are wrapped, the pit is insulated and left until next spring.
You can simplify this propagation process and cut woody cuttings in the autumn. They are placed in a container with sand in a vertical position and placed in the cellar. In spring, planting material is planted in greenhouses. It is believed that propagation by lignified cuttings is more risky because the cuttings do not develop roots well.

Dividing the bush is effective. The bush should be dug up and divided into parts so that there are shoots and roots. After this, new plants are planted.
A simple method is propagation by layering. In early spring, you should dig grooves under the bush and fill them with humus and sawdust (peat will also do). The lower young shoots need to be bent and placed in prepared trenches. To prevent the shoots from spreading, they are pressed to the ground with wire clamps. Next, the ditch is filled with earth, but the top of the branch should remain above the ground. Future seedlings need regular watering. Next spring, the layer with the formed root is separated from the central bush and transplanted to a new location.
Reproduction of actinidia by seeds is a troublesome task. Small green grains should be washed, dried, tied in a piece of nylon and placed in water for four days. Next, plant the seeds in a container with sand. The container with sand must be kept in a warm room and watered periodically. Once a week, the seeds should be removed from the sand and ventilated. After two months, the container with the seeds is transferred to the basement, where it remains for two months, after which the seed must be transferred to a warmer environment. After three weeks, the seeds will begin to crack. Now they need to be planted in flowerpots and, after waiting for the third leaf to appear, planted in the ground.

Actinidia diseases

The strange vine is rarely affected by diseases, but sometimes, when climatic conditions change, powdery mildew, fruit rot, and gray mold can develop on the leaves and shoots. These symptoms must be responded to immediately, before the disease becomes widespread: It is necessary to remove the affected shoots and spray with special preparations. Experienced gardeners advise using a 0.5% solution of baking soda and spraying the bushes 2-3 times with a break of ten days. Young shoots should be treated in early spring and late autumn with Bordeaux mixture to avoid the “invasion” of leaf beetles, bark beetles, and caterpillars. The onset of a fungal disease will be indicated by a whitish coating on the back of the leaf. You need to do the same as when treating other plant diseases.

Five surprises from a strange culture

Gardeners who have been growing actinidia for many years note that this crop quietly gives the gardener many pleasant moments:

The fruits of this strange plant are not only juicy and sweet, but also contain many vitamins and minerals. So the amount of vitamin C is much greater than in red currants and citrus fruits.
Actinidia can be used for vertical gardening, decorate a fence, a gazebo. Moreover, the liana is beautiful at any time:

bright, juicy foliage pleases the eye in spring;
It’s hard to take your eyes off a flowering plant;
in summer it is a wonderful hedge, the color of which can be dark green, silver, reddish brown.

Fruiting begins in the fourth year after planting and does not stop for ten to fifteen years. One bush of the species can produce about 20 kg of fragrant fruits. The fruits remain on the branches until frost. In order for the vine to delight you with its harvest every year, you need to remember several points:

after harvesting, young shoots must be removed from their supports and placed in prepared trenches;
cover them with spruce branches or leaves;
Don’t forget to put mouse poison in the ditch.

These simple measures will save the plant from the winter cold. If actinidia is 3 years old or more, its woody shoots, covered with a thick layer of bark, are no longer afraid of frost.

Delicious actinidia fruits

Actinidia berries are universal. They can be used both for treatment and for canning, and eaten fresh. Here are some tips to help maintain a bountiful harvest:

It is known that dried fruits retain all vitamins. Dried actinidia resembles raisins. The berries should be placed in an oven heated to 60 degrees. Turn over periodically. The dryer should be stored in a container with a tight-fitting lid.
Actinidia is tasty when ground with sugar. You should select well-ripened fruits and grate them. You need to add sugar to the resulting mass (1-2 kilograms of sugar per 1 kg of berries). To improve the taste, you can add a few grams of citric acid. The prepared product is placed in sterile jars and screwed on with lids. One teaspoon of this delicacy contains the daily requirement of vitamin C.
If you have a juicer, it is easy to make tasty and healthy juice.
A little more effort is needed to make the jam. There are many recipes, here is one of them. Unripe fruits should be cut, blanched in boiling water, and poured with boiling sugar syrup. Leave for 5-6 hours, boil. Remove from heat, let cool and put back on fire. The process is repeated several times. Hot jam is placed in sterilized jars and closed with lids.
It’s easy to prepare compote from actinidia berries. The jars are filled with fruits about 2/3 and filled with boiling water. After ten minutes the water is drained. It is used to make syrup. The boiling mixture is poured into jars and covered with lids.

In winter, actinidia preparations will become a real storehouse of vitamins.

Why are actinidia fruits useful?

Small berries contain many nutrients necessary for the human body (vitamins, starch, mineral salts and many others). Actinidia berries are superior to citrus fruits in terms of vitamin C content. Mini-kiwi berries are rich in vitamins P and A and fatty oils. Traditional healers use actinidia fruits to treat a number of diseases:

diseases of the digestive tract;
pulmonary complications;
for vitamin deficiency - the fruits are a real storehouse of vitamins; they help with scurvy and rheumatism.

Not only actinidia fruits have medicinal properties:

The bark contains tannins that have hemostatic and expectorant properties:
the berries contain cardiac glycosides that support cardiac activity;
Tinctures are prepared from the leaves, which can be drunk for angina pectoris;
decoctions of actinidia roots are used for rubbing against rheumatism and gout;
juice and fruit peel promote wound healing;
an ointment prepared from the pulp of berries is used for massages and for fractures after the removal of plaster.

The healing properties of this amazing plant are also used in pharmaceuticals: The drug “Polygamol”, prepared on the basis of extracts from the shoots of Chinese gooseberries, is used to maintain vitality.

Despite the amazing properties of actinidia compositions, they must be used carefully. It is not recommended to start treatment with such drugs for people suffering from thrombophlebitis and varicose veins.

Folk recipes

To prevent cancer, dry actinidia berries must be filled with water and simmered over low heat until a thick composition is obtained. Take one sip after meals.
The massage ointment is prepared as follows: fresh bark fruits should be ground with any oil, adding mustard seeds to the composition.
A tablespoon of crushed bark, poured with boiling water, should be placed in a water bath. Leave for 30 minutes for the mixture to infuse, cool and strain. Use three times a day if metabolism is impaired.
An infusion of flowers and leaves is prepared very simply: pour boiling water and leave for 15 - 20 minutes. Recommended for use for rheumatic pain.

Actinidia varieties

The selection of Amur gooseberries was started by Michurin. Today, over 30 varieties of the most amazing crop have been bred:

The waffle variety is considered the most productive. The berries have a sweet and sour taste. Ripening begins in late summer.
Grape - the beginning of ripening too, but the fruits have an apple aroma.
Lakomka, Clara Zetkin and Leningradsky have very large berries from 5 to 7 grams. The Clara Zetkin variety is resistant to all plant diseases.

You can grow actinidia in any region of the Russian Federation, but you need to choose varieties wisely. Tips could be the following:

Frost-resistant varieties (arguta and kolomikta) are recommended for planting in central Russia, where frosts reach 35 degrees. In such zones, the vine rises 6-8 meters, while in hotter zones, it can grow up to 50 meters. Actinidia fruiting in this area is not as abundant as in the south, so it is often planted for decorative purposes.
In areas with a temperate climate, it is recommended to plant the Geneva variety, which produces abundant harvests, starting from the third year of planting. The liana requires abundant watering, then the branches are hung with large round berries that have excellent taste. sweet, fragrant. If the plant lacks moisture, the berries become soft. For successful growth and development of this variety, shallow loosening is required after the ground is cleared of snow cover.
Purpurna Sadowa is a variety that is popular in Ukraine. It was bred by crossing two varieties of actinidia - argut and purple, which determined the color of the berries - red-purple. Although the shrub can withstand frosts of up to 20 degrees, its care is painstaking, consisting of timely watering, periodic application of fertilizer and spraying against pests.
Rogow is a variety grown by Polish gardeners. differs in later ripening period (early September) and berry color. Every year the vine bursts with a large number of green berries. It is frost-resistant, but requires constant strengthening of the root system so that a gust of wind does not break the long vine.
Kokuwa is a heat-loving variety bred by Japanese breeders. Fruits abundantly, but the berries are small in size with a lemon aroma. Needs constant pruning. Another variety from Japan is Issai. Belongs to dicotyledons, self-pollinating. The plant is small in height - it does not grow above three meters. Does not freeze out in frosts of 20 degrees. Requires abundant watering throughout the summer season; dry soil under the roots can destroy the species. In the first year of planting, it is covered with small, oblong berries.
Jumbo is an Italian species that surprises even experienced gardeners with the weight of its berries - up to 30 grams. The color of the fruit is yellow, green, the shape is elongated, the taste is sweet, but without aroma.

Summarizing what has been said

Actinidia is a plant that loves abundant watering, but does not tolerate stagnant water. When the sun is hot, you should not water the vine; it is better to do it in the morning or evening. It is recommended not only to water the roots, but also to spray the leaves with a gentle stream of water.
The plant should be trimmed before sap flow begins so that the plant does not lose a lot of sap.
The roots of the variety are located close to the surface: you need to loosen shallowly and carefully. After loosening, it is better to mulch the root system.
It is not recommended to remove mature vines from their supports in the winter. For areas with cold climates, you need to choose appropriate varieties.
Accelerated growth and development is affected by the application of fertilizers: phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium are applied several times per season (in early spring, during fruit set, after harvesting). For spring and autumn feeding, two components (phosphorus and potassium) are taken in equal parts (up to 20 g), a little more nitrogen is required (30 g). When feeding in summer, the amount of all components is reduced by 10 g. The mixture is evenly distributed around the tree trunk, the soil is watered and loosened.
You need to grow the plant carefully and periodically inspect it so as not to miss the onset of phytodiseases.

Gardeners who have their own plot of land tend to grow fruit trees on it - plum, pear, apple tree, and go to the market for exotic fruits. Information about the amazing plant, which combines exotic features and familiar qualities of fruit species, is only beginning to spread. So why not become gardening innovators and plant actinidia in the garden, which will delight you with its unusual fruits for decades.

Arsenal&Natalya said:
Actinidia kolomikta is a unique plant that grows well in partial shade, from the northern, western and eastern parts of the world. And what’s interesting is that the berries ripen earlier and accumulate more vitamin C there than in the sun. To plant near a building, you only need to step back 40 cm from the foundation and you cannot allow water to drip from the roof onto the vines.
One addition and errors:
Addition: it is not necessary for actinidia to do such serious drainage. You can plant it on the terrace, that is, on a hill or on a slope, so that the water does not stagnate. The main goal is that when the plant is young, the soil should be kept moist all the time. This is achieved by mulching or planting low-growing plants. But it’s better to plant in a shaded place where nothing grows. Then there is no need to water and mulch the soil again. As for drip irrigation, this is for the south, with strong hot winds. It happens rarely with us. In this case, the vine may shed its leaves.
And the errors:
1. What is the root collar? Were they grown from seeds? There is that very neck that is below the cotyledons. Then put the cat in a poke: where are the male and where are the female ones, determine only with the beginning of flowering. Even a genetic examination will not help you, because before flowering the vines can change sex.
2. When planting plants obtained from cuttings or layering, the “root collar” can be anywhere. And a prerequisite for planting is a significant deepening of the seedlings, but obliquely, shallowly. So that as many dormant buds as possible are underground. What does this give? I usually leave 1 - 2 buds above the soil surface when the length of the shoot or shoots is 30 - 40 cm. What does this give?
a) rescue from cats, they will eat from above, new shoots will appear. In a more or less horizontal position, many shoots will grow, rather than 1 - 2 apical ones.
b) salvation from May frosts. Before fruiting begins, if the leaves of an incorrectly planted plant freeze, do not expect new shoots, they have nowhere to grow - everything is frozen. When planted correctly, they will grow from dormant buds from underground. A fruit-bearing vine will only lose its harvest after a hard frost. There are many dormant buds on the shoots; the vine will recover on its own. Often, middle-aged vines recover from their roots after critical frosts in a severe winter.
Eleni said:

Someone tell me, please!
They are propagated under amateur conditions in the same way as roses: three buds, remove the bottom leaf, an oblique cut below the bud, a straight cut from above. Leave 1/3 of the leaf and under the jar in partial shade in loose soil. It takes root better from June 15 to July 5. For the winter, bury it deeply along with the container in which they were rooted and cover it with leaves. In the spring you can transfer it to a permanent place.
Why late!? Mix the seeds with soil, wrap in cellophane and refrigerate. Plant them in the ground in the spring; they can germinate even in the refrigerator.
In a dry state, lemongrass seeds lose their viability by 70% after 2 months. Then - more. Stratification continues at alternating temperatures for 2 months: a month in the refrigerator on a side shelf, then in a warm place. Provided that the seeds after collection were in damp sand at a low temperature.