Wallpapering surfaces. Requirements for the quality of glued surfaces Noticeable "threads" of seams

14.07.2019

It is perfectly acceptable to wallpaper a wide variety of surfaces. The base must be completely dry, smooth and even, free from dust and other contaminants. On a damp base, wallpaper adhesives will swell or even rot, as a result of which spots will appear on the wallpaper.

In addition, wet and rotting wallpaper glue smells unpleasant enough. Wallpaper should not be glued to glossy surfaces, as they will not stick to them anyway.

If the wallpaper is glued to rough surfaces, then there is a rather high probability that they will soon peel off. To prevent this, the plastered walls are covered with a layer of putty. For this purpose, semi-oil putties are most suitable, the basis of which is chalk sifted through a fine sieve. Before applying the putty, the surface is primed, for which purpose vitriol soil is best suited. Putty is applied in one or two layers. In this case, the upper layer is carefully leveled and cleaned with a fine-grained sandpaper.

Surfaces coated with plaster must be inspected very carefully. If there is a wall of lime or glue on them, it should be removed completely, otherwise the wallpaper will not hold well. After stripping off, the surface must be wiped well with a wet, hard cloth.

If there are cracks on the plaster, they are expanded, all loose stucco is removed. The resulting surface is thoroughly moistened with water and coated with a cement-sand mortar. The seams are rubbed so that they are flush with the rest of the surface. Upon completion of the repair, the surface is thoroughly dried, treated with a wooden block, which will help to make it more even, in the last instance cleaned of dust. You need to remember that all seams and roughness will be very clearly visible on the surface of the wallpaper, especially on paper.

When preparing concrete or gypsum slag surfaces, they are first inspected, cut off all existing irregularities, covered with a solution and rubbed. For these purposes, it is undesirable to use gypsum, since when it hardens, it tends to expand, so an elevation can form on the surface, which will be very noticeable on the wallpaper.

Wood surfaces, as well as surfaces made from fiberboard or particle board, plywood or dry plaster, must be cleaned of dust. In places where the plates are joined together, they can protrude, so they are treated with a sandpaper, covered with a layer of drying oil, putty. It is acceptable to just glue the cracks with paper strips or gauze. Hats of nails are sunk into an array of slabs or plywood to a depth of 1 mm, they are covered with a layer of drying oil and putty.

It must be remembered that the sheets of dry plaster have two sides - smooth and rough. They should be attached to the wall with the rough side. If they have already been nailed on the contrary, then the rough surface is covered with a primer, on which a layer of putty is then applied.

All wooden surfaces are upholstered with cardboard before wallpapering.

Surfaces that are already pasted over with old wallpaper are prepared in a variety of ways. To remove the wallpaper, they are moistened with warm water and left for 10 minutes, after which the wallpaper should easily move away from the base. In some cases, the wallpaper can not be removed. This can be done if the glued wallpaper has a lower density compared to existing ones.

Before gluing the walls with wallpaper, they must be glued, that is, cover the base with the same composition with which the wallpaper will be glued. This is done with a fly brush. An adhesive film is formed on the surface, due to which the wallpaper will hold stronger. In addition, the film will also help protect the wallpaper from exposure to various alkalis and other substances contained in the base.

If adhesives are produced in hot water, then gluing will also have to be done with a hot composition, distributing it very well on the surface and leaving no gaps or clots. The upper parts of the walls are most carefully treated.

After gluing, they start gluing the walls with paper, which is very important for dense, embossed or washable wallpapers, since this particular technology is indicated in SNIP. Smooth gypsum-concrete or concrete surfaces, as well as all kinds of sheet materials, can not be glued with paper.

Each of the sheets of paper is well smoothed so that all the air comes out from under it. Thin paper adheres better to the surface, and is also a primer for wallpaper. In addition, it smooths out minor irregularities.

It is easiest and most convenient to use newspapers as soil for wallpaper. They are stacked on the floor or on the table. Begin gluing from the top of the wall. Thin paper is glued with a slight overlap, thick paper is glued end-to-end, trying to avoid gaps, bloating or wrinkles, as this will negatively affect the final result.

Lubricate thick paper with glue 2-3 times so that it becomes saturated with it, it becomes softer, then the gluing process will go much easier.

Close to the platbands or baseboards, the paper is glued back to back, but it should not be found on the baseboards themselves, since paper will most likely quickly peel off from them. Often there are cracks or even cracks between the wall and baseboards. They need to be cleaned and sealed with either gypsum or cement-sand mortar.

Wallpaper before gluing must be prepared. To do this, cut the edges of the rolls and cut them into separate panels. The edge must be cut very carefully along the existing line. If the wallpaper density does not exceed 100 g / m2, then they can be glued with an overlap. In this case, the edges should be directed towards the movement of light. For wallpaper that needs to be glued back to back, both edges are trimmed.

Wallpaper needs to be rolled out a bit and inspected for various kinds of defects, and then sorted by color uniformity. Homogeneous wallpapers are pasted in those places where the walls will be open, and heterogeneous - behind the furniture, in dark corners, in a word, where they will not be too striking.

In the event that you are working with wallpaper with a pattern, you need to cut the cloth so that the pattern at the joints matches (Fig. 25).

If the picture is large enough, you should make a small margin. In addition, all panels should have an allowance of 5-10 cm, since in many rooms the height of the ceilings is uneven, and this drawback is often found not only in houses of the old construction, but also in new ones. After gluing, the excess is cut off at the baseboard with scissors or, more preferably, with a knife in a ruler.

The easiest way to combine the pattern is as follows: roll several rolls on the floor at once, lay them so that the pattern matches, and then cut along the ruler with a knife. Sliced \u200b\u200bpanels are stacked or twisted into a roll. After cutting, as a rule, there will be a significant number of pieces that can be useful in the process of pasting walls above and below windows, above doors, as well as in places where exact pattern matching is required. For example, in the figure below (Fig. 26), you can see a scan of the walls of the room that need to be pasted with wallpaper of various lengths.

a slight discrepancy in the upper lines of the panels is allowed, since it will hide these irregularities underneath.

Wallpaper begins to glue from the window and leads into the interior of the room. Each first panel on the next wall must be glued strictly vertically. To comply with this condition, it is necessary to measure the distance equal to the width of the panel from the corner of the room and determine its position using a plumb line (Fig. 27).

The last panel on the wall should not be glued strictly to the corner, but overlap it by 2-3 cm. To do this, even before applying the glue, you need to determine which segment of the wallpaper will be superfluous and remove it. On the next wall, the panel must be glued right up to the corner to overlap the overlapped strip. It is also perfectly acceptable to glue the corners with a whole panel, but only if they have a perfectly smooth surface, since otherwise wrinkles will appear on the wallpaper.

Apply glue to the wallpaper is best on the floor or a long table. At the same time, the floor must be covered with newspapers, having previously cleaned it of debris and dust. The sheets should lie on top of each other in a stack face down so that each subsequent protrudes from under the other by 1 cm or more. When laying the panels can be involuntarily folded into a roll. To prevent this from happening, you can put a small load on them.

Wallpaper glue should be applied with a fly brush along the length of the panel, to prevent clots or gaps, while its layer should not be very thick (Fig. 28).

For more reliable adhesion of the edges to the base, they must be lubricated as thoroughly as possible. That is why professionals recommend initially to smear the edges as best as possible, and only then proceed to applying kpei to the rest of the panel. When it is completely covered with glue, you need to once again apply it to the edges. Nevertheless, the glue should not be too much, otherwise it will protrude from under the wallpaper and contaminate their front side. In this case, the excess must be removed with a clean, dry cloth.

The first panel of wallpaper is glued exactly along the marked vertical line in the direction from the window into the depth of the room so that their joints are as less noticeable as possible.

It is quite acceptable to work alone, but it’s much easier and more convenient to work with a partner, because in the process of gluing you will have to climb the stairs and go down from it.

After the panel is glued to the wall, it needs to be smoothed out from above and then from below, starting from the middle and gradually moving towards the edges, carefully making sure that there are no wrinkles, bubbles and poorly glued edges. A soft, dry cloth is suitable for smoothing (fig. 29).

Fig. 29. Smoothing the glued panel

If you work in pairs, then one person should be upstairs, standing on a table, stepladder or chair. The other, at this moment, spreads the panels, fold them in a certain way and delivers them upstairs.

The man standing upstairs takes the wallpaper at one end and spreads the folded canvas. The worker at the bottom takes the lower end and pulls the wallpaper slightly, applies the edge exactly to the marked vertical, glues the entire cloth, and then smoothes it with a soft cloth, as described above (Fig. 30). Smoothing should be done as carefully as possible so as not to grease the paint located on the front side of the wallpaper.

It also happens that under the wallpaper there are air bubbles that cannot be eliminated by smoothing. In this case, the bubble must be pierced with a needle, through the hole formed, squeeze out all the accumulated air and smooth it.

If the pattern on the wallpaper is smeared even with the lightest smoothing, this operation should be performed through a sheet of clean paper, and newspapers cannot be used for this purpose, since they will leave paint on the surface of the wallpaper.

When the first panel is glued, you can proceed to gluing the second, while the uncut edge of the first panel should not protrude, so that each subsequent sheet will overlap the edge of the previous one.

Quite often, such a situation arises that the next panel does not stick well or even lags behind the edge glued earlier. This can happen because the wallpaper does not stick to the paint on which the edge is coated. In this case, carefully lubricate it again with a small brush, and when the glue is a little grasp, stick the next panel.

You should not put too much glue on the wallpaper, since it will not be better to stay away from it, because as a result of smoothing, excess glue will still be removed, and only the front side of the wallpaper will become dirty, so you will have to constantly wipe it with a clean rag, which takes a lot of time , and the picture may remain spoiled.

If there are sockets or switches on the walls that cannot be removed, they are handled as follows: first they put a dry cloth on the wall, determine where the socket or switch will be located, cut a hole exactly in size and only then apply glue and paste the wallpaper.

If you bought wallpaper with a fairly high density indicator (120 g / m2 or more), then they must be glued back to back. The edges of the panels need to be lifted, wrapped, again glue on them, glued and carefully smoothed.

Using this technology, wallpaper should be glued extremely carefully so that the glue does not stain their front side. To do this, proceed as follows: glue a strip of paper 2–3 cm wide along the entire length of the cloth to be glued. Then it will lay its edge on this paper, which is removed, and the extreme part of the wallpaper is glued thoroughly.

TOOLS FOR WALLPAPER WORKS

1. Scissors.

2. Roller for leveling glued wallpaper.

3. Brush for smoothing wallpaper.

4. Brush for spreading glue.

6. The line.

7. Roller knife.

When accepting the work, the compliance of the wallpaper with the samples approved by the architectural supervision is checked. Wallpaper work is accepted only after drying glued with both surfaces or after glued linkrust.

The quality of wallpaper should meet the following requirements:

There should be no bubbles or spots on glued surfaces;

All panels should have the same color and tint;

The fit of the pattern at the joints should be accurate - with tolerances of not more than +0.5 mm;

Gaps, gluing and peeling are not allowed;

The joints of the wallpaper when gluing them end to end should not be noticeable at a distance of 3 m.

When gluing wallpaper lap the edge of the panel should be facing the light - towards the windows.

DIARY-REPORT No. 27

date<<13>\u003e 06 2015

Theme:Surface preparation for painting.

Purpose:To own techniques for preparing surfaces for painting.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Preparation of surfaces for painting.

Before painting, surfaces must be prepared in a certain way. Before the start of painting work in the premises, all construction work is completed (except for linoleum flooring and parquet laying), electrical work, installation and testing of central heating, water supply, sewage. The surface to be painted must have a certain moisture content (for plastered and concrete surfaces no more than 8%, and for wood-12%). In winter conditions, internal painting is carried out in insulated and heated rooms at the temperature of the most cooled surfaces above 8 ° C. Wooden structures must be well fixed, not have cracks, burrs and other flaws. Window and door blocks come to objects painted once (i.e., all processes preceding the first painting are performed by the manufacturer).

DIARY-REPORT No. 28

date<<13>\u003e 06 2015

Theme:Painting facades with acrylic paints.

Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with acrylic paints.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Painting facades with acrylic paints.

FACADE PAINT TECHNOLOGY WITH ACRYLIC PAINTS

The article discusses one of the ways to protect the facade from premature aging - painting with paints and varnishes. In particular, the most common type of facade coatings is presented - based on aqueous acrylic dispersion. Acrylic coatings are characterized by environmental safety and high performance. The service life and operational properties of the paintwork depend not only on the quality of the paint, but also on the preparation of the facade surface, compliance with application technologies. Therefore, we consider in detail all the stages of painting. Preparation of the facade surface The surface of the facade should be clean, not crumbling and not "grinding", dry, without signs of fungal lesions. Old crumbling and cracked coatings must be removed. To strengthen the “grinding” surfaces, you can use an acrylic primer of deep penetration, for example, primer VD-AK-051 of the Galamix trademark diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. Puttying Before painting, it is necessary to level the surface of the facade - putty chips, cracks, cavities, etc. In order to prevent the putty from drying out too quickly by absorbing water into the surface of the wall, it is recommended that the wall be primed first. The result of the quick drying of the putty can be the appearance of "scoring" during puttying. For the same reason, when applying putty in 2 layers, it is desirable to carry out an intermediate priming of the first layer. It must be borne in mind that before painting with water-dispersed acrylic paints, water-based putties must be used. In case the finish painting is carried out with structural paints creating a relief pattern, the presence on the surface of small grooves, cracks and chips. This is due to the fact that acrylic structural paints are usually applied in a thick layer and can hide small surface defects. Therefore, the putty stage can be excluded from the process using structural paints. Priming In order to increase the service life of the paintwork, it is necessary to first prime the surface of the facade. Priming will protect the wall from environmental influences before painting it with paint and varnish material, reduce paint consumption, and improve its adhesion to the surface. Domestic manufacturers offer two main types of acrylic primers. Deep penetration primers are recommended for highly porous substrates, for strengthening fragile surfaces, for use in rooms with high humidity. Another type of primer is filled; they fill small defects and surface irregularities. Both types of acrylic primers form a thin film on the surface of the facade, even out its porosity and moisture absorption, stabilize the surface layer, and avoid the different shades of the coating after staining. Acrylic primers are suitable for application on new and previously painted concrete, drywall, brick, plaster and wooden surfaces before painting them with water-dispersed acrylic facade paints. Primers can be applied by manual methods - roller, brush, as well as by pneumatic spraying. The consumption of primers depends on the absorbency of the facade surface. For example, for acrylic primers of the Russian Galamix trademark, the average consumption is 80-120 g / m2. Painting the facade with acrylic paints Acrylic water-dispersion paints have high weather resistance, they pass gases and water vapor well, and are highly resistant to washing and wet abrasion. Styrene-acrylic paints have a higher alkali resistance than acrylic, which is important when painting highly alkaline concrete surfaces. However, the durability of the paint, implying the absence of “chalking”, yellowing, cracking, peeling, and dirt absorption, is determined not only by the nature of the binder. It is important that the ratio of fillers and pigments with respect to the binder in the paint composition is correctly selected. The optimal ratio provides good adhesion, low water absorption in combination with the ability to diffuse air and water vapor from the interior. The type and amount of pigment included in the paint is also important. The amount of pigment determines the opacity of the paint, and accordingly its consumption, and light resistance depends on the quality and chemical nature of the pigment, i.e. discoloration due to exposure to sunlight. The paint should contain additives that affect its storage stability, ease of application.

DIARY-REPORT No. 29

date<<13>\u003e 06 2015

Theme:Painting of facades with silicate compositions.

Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with silicate compositions.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Brush tools, roller.
Task 1. Painting facades with silicate compositions.

The surface for silicate paint should be carefully prepared. Loose surfaces (plaster, brick) are previously primed with water or, if this does not help, with a solution of liquid glass (specific gravity 1.13-1.15) with chalk; painting in case of priming with water is carried out on a dry surface.
The necessary strength of the primer is determined by the method of test colorings on the surfaces of buildings. If, after 2-4 hours after applying the primer, the wall does not have spotting and does not grind, its coating has a summer luster (resembling the luster of an egg shell) - the primer is chosen successfully and you can start painting. When grinding, the strength of the liquid glass solution is strengthened, with spotting, it is weakened.
Painting is carried out in two layers. The second layer is applied no earlier than 20 hours. after the first painting. Painting work is usually done with a spray gun, but can also be done with a roller, brush or spray gun at an air temperature below 24 °. In dry sunny weather, the color of the facades facing south is only up to 10 hours. in the morning. At low temperatures it is impossible to work with silicate paints.

DIARY-REPORT No. 30

date<<13>\u003e 06 2015

Theme:Painting facades with cement compounds.

Purpose:To own techniques for painting facades with cement compounds.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

The surface for painting with cementitious compositions should be prepared as for normal painting of facades, and after washing it should be thoroughly moistened with water to create normal conditions for cement hardening and to prevent the suction of water from the paintwork composition.
On the prepared surface, painting is done two times with spray guns, rollers or brushes, and the second painting is performed in a day, carefully protecting the freshly painted surface from direct sunlight, otherwise fast drying will violate the normal conditions of cement hardening.
0.5-0.9 kg of dry paint is consumed per 1 m2 of surface.
To avoid damage to the tool, it must be washed immediately after the end of work, trying to use any breaks in work for this.

DIARY-REPORT No. 31

date<<02>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Painting of facades with lime compounds.

Purpose:Own the techniques of painting facades with lime compounds.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology of painting facades.

Task 2. Defects reason for their appearance and methods for their elimination.

DIARY-REPORT No. 32

date<<03>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of surfaces painted with aqueous compounds.

Purpose:Master the methods of repairing surfaces painted with waterborne compounds .

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.

Task 2. Requirements for preparatory work

DIARY-REPORT No. 33

date<<04>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Preparation of plaster surfaces for staining the field with vinyl chloride compounds.

Purpose:To have skills in preparing plaster surfaces for painting a field with vinyl chloride compounds .

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology training.

Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.

DIARY-REPORT No. 34

date<<05>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of concrete surfaces painted with oil paints. .

Purpose:To own techniques for repairing concrete surfaces painted with oil paints.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology application.

Task 2. Defects and their elimination.

DIARY-REPORT No. 35

date<<07>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting borders and friezes.

Purpose:To own techniques for gluing borders and friezes.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. What are borders and friezes.

Task 2. Where they apply.

DIARY-REPORT No. 36

date<<08>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Features of the production of painting in winter conditions.

Purpose:Know the requirement when painting in winter conditions.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1.requirement in the production of painting works in winter conditions..

DIARY-REPORT No. 37

date<<08>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Methods of implementation and quality control in alternative jobs.

Purpose:Own methods of execution and quality control in alternative jobs.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Requirements for preparation and methods of implementation.

Task 2. Quality control.

DIARY-REPORT No. 38

date<<09>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Surface painting with casein compounds.

Purpose:Master the techniques of painting surfaces with casein compounds . .

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. The technology of painting work.

Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.

DIARY REPORT No. 39

date<<10>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Painting parquet coatings with special compounds.

Purpose:Own the techniques of coloring parquet coatings with special compounds.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting parquet coatings with special compounds.

DIARY REPORT No. 40

date<<11>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.

Purpose:Own the techniques of processing and painting metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.

DIARY-REPORT No. 41

date<<12>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Coloring of various surfaces under the invoice step gray.

Purpose:Own the techniques of painting various surfaces for invoice step gray.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting of various surfaces for invoice step gray.

DIARY-REPORT No. 42

date<<14>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Painting of window and door surfaces with oil compounds.

Purpose:Own the techniques of painting window and door surfaces with oil compositions.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting the window and door surfaces with oil compositions.

DIARY-REPORT No. 43

date<<15>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting concrete surfaces with cramped wallpaper.

Purpose:Own techniques for pasting concrete surfaces with cramped wallpaper.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compounds.

DIARY-REPORT No. 44

date<<16>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.

Purpose:To own techniques for gluing a plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.

DIARY-REPORT No. 45

date<<17>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting drywall washable wallpaper.

Purpose:Own methods of pasting drywall washable wallpaper.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting of drywall surface with washable wallpaper.

DIARY-REPORT No. 46

date<<18>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.

Purpose:To own methods of pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.

DIARY-REPORT No. 47

date<<21>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Pasting the field with vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.

Purpose:Own the methods of pasting the field with vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a field of vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.

DIARY-REPORT No. 48

date<<22>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with aqueous compounds.

Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with water compositions.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology for repairing painted surfaces with water compositions.

Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.

DIARY-REPORT No. 49

date<<23>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with a water-based composition.

Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with a water-based composition.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. The technology of repairing painted surfaces with a water-based composition.

DIARY-REPORT No. 50

date<<24>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of painted surfaces with non-aqueous compositions.

Purpose:own methods of repairing painted surfaces with non-aqueous compositions.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology repair non-aqueous compositions of plaster and concrete surfaces.

Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.

Task 3. Requirements of SNiP with improved coloring by molar compounds.

DIARY-REPORT No. 51

date<<25>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of wooden and metal surfaces.

Purpose:Own the techniques of repairing wooden and metal surfaces.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Repair technology.

Task 2. Defects and methods for their elimination.

Task 3. Demand SNiP with improved color.

DIARY-REPORT No. 52

date<<26>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair of glued surfaces.

Purpose:To own techniques for repairing glued surfaces.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Technology for the repair of glued surfaces.

Task 2. Defects of the cause.

Task 3. Demands SNiP to the quality of repair work.

DIARY-REPORT No. 53

date<<28>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:Repair glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.

Purpose:Own the techniques of repairing glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Repair glued surfaces field vinyl chloride films.

DIARY-REPORT No. 54

date<<29>\u003e 03 2016

Theme:The workplace of the painter and individual means are sewn up.

Purpose:Know the workplace of the painter and individual means are sewn up.

Place of execution:Training workshops

Working hours -6 o'clock

Drill tools with a whisk, a spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compounds.

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Posted on http://www.allbest.ru/

Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation

Kazan State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering

Department of TSMIK

on the topic: “Technology for gluing and painting surfaces”

Fulfilled: Art. 2ST 302 Knyazev M.A.

Leader: Iskanderov R.A.

Kazan 2014

Introduction

4. Painting of facades and roofs

Conclusion

Literature

Introduction

paint and varnish roofing wallpaper

Paint work includes the application of paints and varnishes. Paint and varnish coatings in construction are used to protect the surface from atmospheric influences, metal products from corrosion, wooden products from destruction or wear, to decorate various structures, to increase their sanitary-hygienic and fire-fighting properties, as well as for aesthetic and engineering purposes.

1. Types and purpose of paint coatings

Paint work includes the application of paints and varnishes. Paint and varnish coatings in construction are used to protect the surface from atmospheric influences, metal products from corrosion, * wooden products from destruction or wear, to decorate various structures, increase their sanitary-hygienic and fire-prevention properties, as well as for aesthetic and engineering purposes.

A paint-and-lacquer coating refers to one or several dried-up layers of paint-and-lacquer materials applied to the surface to be painted, which, as a result of drying (hardening) or occurring simultaneously with this process in a binder (polymerization, polycondensation, carbonization, etc.), turn into a decorative protective film, firmly connecting to the base.

By optical properties, coatings are transparent and opaque; in terms of gloss - shiny or matte; by the nature of the surface - smooth and rough (for example, under the texture of "shagreen leather").

The transparent coating does not cover the texture or color of the surface being trimmed or the underlying layer. Materials for transparent coatings are varnishes, cellulose ethers or other polymers in pure form or dissolved in light organic solvents. The most common in construction are silicone, acrylic, urethane and oil-resin varnishes, which cover structures and wood products with preserving the visible texture (parquet floors, built-in furniture, profiled doors), as well as decorative stone chips for decoration of interiors and building facades.

Opaque coating completely covers the natural color and texture of the surface being trimmed. Opaque coatings are matte, shiny, plain and with a decorative pattern. A cover with a decorative pattern is an artificial reproduction on an opaque coating of the texture and color of wood or any other patterns.

Materials for opaque coatings are paint compositions consisting of a binder, fillers, pigments and solvents.

Paint compositions are divided according to their purpose: for internal (finishing of floors, walls) and external (finishing of facades, roofs, metal structures) works; decorative and picturesque; special (for example, chemically resistant, fireproof).

To improve the technological and operational properties (shorten the drying and hardening periods, increase water resistance, decorativeness), special additives are introduced into the paint compositions - desiccants, thinners or thinners ;; water repellents.

In relation to the effect of water, paint coatings are non-waterproof and waterproof. A film of non-waterproof coatings either dissolves in water or under its influence significantly reduces its decorative and performance properties. Non-water-resistant coatings are those made of calcareous, adhesive, casein paints. To obtain waterproof coatings, paint compositions are used on water-insoluble binders - varnishes, enamels, oil and synthetic paint compositions, which form a waterproof film on the surface of the base.

Paint coatings, as a rule, consist of a primer layer, one or more layers of putty with intermediate primer layers, an upper primer layer and one to three layers of a paint composition.

The purpose of surface priming is to harden the upper painted layer, equalize its “pulling" ability, fix the dust on the surface and increase the adhesion (adhesive strength) of the putty or paint with the surface being trimmed. By filling, fill in various irregularities and level the surface to be finished for final painting. Surface painting is performed to obtain the paint finish of the required operational quality, color and decorativeness.

The primer is a liquefied binder, sometimes with a small amount of pigment, which has a lower viscosity than paint formulations. The primer must be deeply absorbed into the pores of the base, creating a thin layer over the entire surface that adheres firmly to the base and paint coatings (putty or paint coatings). If a paint composition is directly applied to the primer, then it is advisable to use the same paint composition as a primer, but diluted with a solvent. Primed base does not suck out a large amount of binder from paint coatings and thus does not weaken the coating.

Putty is a composition used to smooth surfaces with irregularities up to 2 mm, and to create a smooth, uniform surface that does not have pores, shells, cracks, scratches, potholes and other defects that are noticeable to the eye and suitable for priming and painting or for wallpapering and synthetic films.

Thick fillers with a large amount of binder (grease paste) are used to fill cracks, sinks and potholes up to 5 mm in size. Defects of greater depth are sealed with a polymer-cement or gypsum-polymer cement solution. Each layer of putty must be primed. The primer, impregnating a thin filler layer, strengthens it and gives the surface increased adhesion (adhesion) to subsequent layers of the paint coating.

To perform the final painting finish, various paint compositions are used. The technology and technique for performing painting work depend on the type of paint composition.

All paint compositions (primers, putties and paint coatings) are usually referred to in the same way as the binder used in them: calcareous (binder - lime), perchlorovinyl (perchlorovinyl varnish). According to the type of binder, paint compositions are divided into water based on adhesives and mineral binders, oil and synthetic.

Water primers include vitriol, alum, soap and silicate; to oil - drying oil, diluted oil color, oil-emulsion composition and pentaphthalic primer on oil-resin varnish; to synthetic ones - perchlorovinyl, polyvinyl acetate, styrene-butadiene, organosilicon.

Water putties - vitriol and alum; oil-glue - made on the basis of drying oil (3, 5, 10 and 18% drying oil); synthetic ones are gypsum-polymer-cement and polymer-cement, carboxymethyl cellulose-latex-chalk, perchlorovinyl, pentaphthalic, polydiene.

Painting compounds (paints): water - calcareous, silicate, adhesive and cement; oil - oil; synthetic - polyvinyl acetate, acrylic, styrene-butadiene, organosilicon, perchlorovinyl, glyphthal, pentaphthal, isoprene, organosilicate, etc.

Adhesives and mastics for fixing wallpapers and films also belong to paint compositions.

2. Requirements for the readiness of the building for painting

Painting work completes the entire complex of works on the construction of buildings, they are performed in the last turn.

The technical readiness of the building under construction for the production of painting works depends on the duration, complexity, cost and quality of the painting.

The technical readiness of the building for painting works is determined by the state of all previous construction and installation works and the quality of their implementation, as well as the quality and degree of factory readiness of the parts and structures used in the construction of the building.

Before the start of the painting work, all construction, installation and finishing works, plastering and facing, which may cause damage to the paintwork, as well as glazed windows, must be completed; the building heating system has been fully completed and tested; the joints and adjoining blocks and panels to each other, as well as the joints of the floor panels and places with large irregularities on the surface of reinforced concrete products are sealed with a solution and sealant; holes are plastered in the places of passage of risers, pipelines and other wiring, as well as mounting holes and damaged places; window, balcony and door blocks have been smoked and patched with mortar; screeds and leveling layers for floors are made; railings for stairs and fitted wardrobes; seams between blocks or panels are sealed; all roofing and waterproofing works have been completed; installed structures and frames for fastening suspended ceilings, cladding made of natural stone and suspension of lamps; All damp rooms and separate places of constructions are dried.

Of particular importance is the timely and high-quality performance of sanitary and electrical installation works. Delay in laying hidden pipelines necessitates sealing and drying of their locations, repainting surfaces. Pressure testing of heating systems and water supply, washing of the sewage system during the painting process of rooms or after its completion leads to difficult defects and alteration of already completed works.

In winter, in rooms where painting is performed, the air temperature should not be lower than 10 ° С and the relative humidity should not exceed 70%.

In non-standard buildings, temporary entrance doors are arranged and all openings and openings in the unheated part of the building are closed. Concrete and reinforced concrete products (partitions, acoustic slabs, etc.) to be finished, plaster and gypsum concrete panels must be humidity not more than 8, and wood products - not more than 12%. The surfaces to be painted are pre-dried and cleaned of spray and sagging solution, grease stains, efflorescence and corrosion.

Before putting the facade for painting along it, they clear and plan a site with a width of at least 3 m for the installation of scaffolding (if this is provided for by the project of work).

By the beginning of the finishing work, the construction site should be planned, roads and porches should be arranged, etc. The deadline for the start of the finishing work must be in accordance with the schedule approved for this object.

In order to start finishing work, it is necessary to have acts on hidden work and on acceptance of an object for decoration. In acts of hidden work indicate data on the work performed, which may subsequently affect the quality of the finish (for example, the strength of the screed under the leveling layer). In the act of acceptance of the object for decoration, the conformity of the quality and degree of factory decoration of reinforced concrete, gypsum concrete, carpentry, metal and other products to the requirements of GOST and TU is noted; the quality of structures and planes handed over for finishing - verticality, horizontalness, evenness, strength, stiffness, tightness of gaps, etc.

Finishing work, as a rule, is performed in a certain technological sequence: glass, plastering, facing, painting and wallpaper. Depending on the type, the floor is arranged either before painting and wallpaper work or after.

Glass works - glazing with ordinary, polished and display glass, as well as stemalite and fiberglass.

Plastering works - applying a layer of monolithic plaster on brick, slag concrete, reinforced concrete, concrete and other surfaces, as well as sealing joints in the construction of buildings and structures from prefabricated structures.

Facing works - internal and external lining of buildings and structures with artificial (ceramic, mosaic, polystyrene) plates and tiles, slabs made of natural stone (granite, travertine), as well as synthetic large-sized tiles and roll materials (polyform, vinyl).

Flooring - the installation of screeds, plank and parquet floors, as well as floors made of synthetic tile and roll materials.

Painting - surface finishing with water, glue, oil, varnish, enamel and synthetic paints and varnishes, as well as pasting the walls with wallpaper and synthetic films.

3. Painting of internal surfaces

Non-aqueous compositions - oil, varnish, enamel - surfaces are painted for protective and decorative purposes. When the main purpose is the protective purpose of the coating, apply compositions that form glossy films. During the formation of glossy films, pigments are immersed in the thickness of the coating, and on top of the pigments is a continuous layer of a binder that reflects light specularly.

For decorative painting of surfaces inside the building, matte coatings are used that soften the color tones of the paint, make defects in plaster, concrete, wood less noticeable

Non-navigational structures are used to decorate rooms with high hygiene requirements and in which the coloring must be mechanically sound (kitchens, public canteens, laundries, operating rooms, shops, corridors of public institutions). They are applied only on dry surfaces with a thin even layer for two to three times, and each layer must be completely dry before applying the next one.

In a thick layer under the upper film, a liquid layer remains and roughness, wrinkles and cracks form on the surface to be painted.

Solvents (for example turpentine) are added to non-aqueous formulations to increase hiding power.

The number and sequence of operations for the preparation, processing and painting of internal surfaces with non-aqueous compositions depends on the type of surface, type of paint composition and category of paint work

Waterborne paints include adhesive paints on animals (including casein) and plant adhesives, on CMC carboxymethyl cellulose water-soluble adhesive, as well as lime, silicate, casein and synthetic water-based paints. Water-based paints form non-waterproof, semi-waterproof and waterproof coatings. As a rule, they are prepared at a construction site: pigments of a different color are introduced into the “creamy mass of the main pigment to give the paints an appropriate shade. The finished color is grinded on the paint grater.

For the preparation of paint colors, pigments and binders are used, taking into account the operating conditions in which the painted surfaces will be. The working viscosity of the tint should ensure the coating of surfaces without draining compositions and without noticeable brush marks.

Water colors are divided by the intensity (density) of color:

whole, in which all color pigments are used without white admixture;

intensive - with a small admixture of white pigment;

normal - using white and other colored pigments in approximately equal amounts;

whitened - using a white pigment with a little addition of other colored pigments.

Before painting with solid and intense colors, the surface is primed with colored primers (to match the color of the main coating). It is better to seal water colors with plant adhesives (starch paste or CMC glue). In this case, the coating is more even and the risk of the formation of marble-like veins, often obtained with a low degree of sticking with animal glues, is eliminated.

When dried, the water colors are normal, especially whitened, brighten significantly, whole colors darken. Often, the color changes the set color due to the deposition of pigments, and the more liquid the composition is applied, the faster this process occurs. Therefore, the colors are prepared in a pasty form and kept in a non-glued state; stick and dilute them to the required viscosity immediately before use.

Applied water-based paint compositions in appearance should be a homogeneous mass without lumps, and the color of the paint should correspond to the approved standards of the color book.

Before use, the paints are thoroughly mixed. The viscosity of the paint composition, as a rule, is determined by the VZ-4 viscometer, it should be in the range of 15-180 s, depending on the nature of the paints and how they are applied to the surface to be painted.

Surfaces are painted on a dried primed layer (not earlier than an hour after its application). Paints are applied two to three times with brushes, paint rollers, spray guns, spray guns, etc.

The number and sequence of operations for the preparation, processing and painting of internal surfaces with aqueous compositions depend on the type of surface, the painting composition and the category of painting work.

When accepting paint coatings, check their compliance with the project, test samples and approved standards. Acceptance of the painting is carried out after the drying of water colors or the formation of a durable film on surfaces painted with synthetic water-based compositions. Surfaces should have a glossy or matte plain texture. On painted surfaces are not allowed spots, tricks, wrinkles, drips, gaps, translucence of the underlying layers. Local curvature of lines and shading in the mating surfaces painted in different colors, with high-quality painting is not allowed, with improved should not exceed 2 mm, and with a simple - 5 mm. Borders, friezes and panels should be the same width and not have visible joints and curvatures. Spray and stains on spray-treated surfaces should be evenly spaced. When texturing surfaces, the texture layer must be strong, not lagging behind the base, not have cracks, weakly setting particles and burrs.

4. Painting of facades and roofs

Facade paints must be weather-resistant, that is, resistant to sunlight and heat, changes in air temperature, and rainfall; alkali resistance, light resistance, i.e., not destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation; elasticity, adhesion, vapor permeability, hiding power.

Smooth smooth facade surfaces are painted with traditional special facade paints (for example, lime-cement, cement, silicate). The service life of such coatings is 5-7 years. To increase the durability of the finish, silicate paints modified with hydrophobic organosilicon liquids GKZh-10 and GKZh-11, and synthetic paints are used. The last 10-12 years retain the color scheme. Currently, the following types of synthetic facade paints are used: water-based emulsion E-VA-17 and E-KCh-112, organosilicon enamels of the brand KO and "silal", organosilicate enamels VN-30, acrylic AK-126 and "Viana", isoprene and others.

In modern construction, facade paints, which are a suspension of polymer binders in solvents with particles of pigments, fillers, surfactants, plasticizers, stabilizers and other special additives, are becoming increasingly important. Paint coatings from them are characterized by high durability, decorativeness, manufacturability and satisfy the requirements of modern architecture (the ability to obtain a wide color gamut and a diverse texture of decorative protective coatings). Such paints are produced centrally in factories according to the relevant technological regulations, and their quality is controlled by technical conditions.

5. Pasting surfaces with wallpaper and films

Pasting walls and ceilings with wallpaper or synthetic films is performed at the end of all painting work, with the exception of the last painting of carpentry and floors. When gluing walls and ceilings with wallpaper or films, the temperature and rooms should not be lower than 10 ° C, relative humidity should not exceed 70%. Humidity of glued concrete surfaces should be no more than 4%

Wallpaper can be ordinary and moisture resistant with a polyvinyl chloride or polyvinyl acetate coating, which can be wiped with a damp rag during operation. One of the types of wallpaper of the highest quality is embossed wallpaper - linkrust, which is made by applying a layer of colored mastic on paper from oils, resins, plasticized nitrocellulose or other non-aqueous binders with fillers. The relief pattern on the linkrust is obtained by rolling paper with fresh mastic applied through patterned rollers.

Wallpaper is delivered to the object with cropped edges, cut and selected in color and pattern, equipped for each room and apartment and laid in containers.

Synthetic films are rolled material with a smooth or cramped surface, matte or glossy texture, with a printed pattern. Films are made by applying polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene paste to a paper or fabric base. Every year, synthetic films are increasingly used: they are replaced by paper wallpaper, glazed tiles, paper-laminated plastic, linkcrust. With a film that imitates valuable wood species, they paste over door leafs, parts of built-in furniture. It is widely used in the repair of residential apartments and public buildings.

Surfaces covered with films are hygienic and decorative. Films allow you to simulate any building materials both in color and texture, and the nature of the surface. Compared with a number of materials (paper-laminated plastic, thin wood veneer, linkcrust, ceramic tiles), they are more economical in cost and labor costs when using.

The type of wallpaper and synthetic films must comply with the approved standards for each type of finish.

Ordinary wall-paper is pasted over walls of living rooms, hostels, moisture-resistant - walls of corridors and halls of residential apartments, walls in cultural and public and public buildings; various synthetic films or linkcrust - the walls of kitchens and sanitary cabins with normal temperature and humidity conditions.

Wallpaper and films should be uniform in color, non-sticky, without spots, scratches, tears and creases. The paint layer should be durable and should not crumble when bent wallpaper or films. On the panels are not allowed fuzzy or uneven edges of the drawings and the displacement of colors. Store rolls in closed, dry rooms in a horizontal position at an air temperature of at least 10 ° C.

For wallpapering, a paste made of synthetic CMC glue (sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose) and finely ground chalk is used. The paste should be homogeneous, without insoluble particles, grains of sand and other blockages. The viscosity of the paste at a temperature of 18-20 ° C (according to VZ-4) is 25-30 s.

Synthetic films on a fabric base are glued with polyvinyl acetate dispersion PVA or latex aqueous adhesive such as “bustilate”.

Such adhesives are prepared, as a rule, centrally and delivered to construction sites in metal cans.

Lincrust and synthetic films are fixed with wooden or plastic layouts that cover the joints of the panels and their upper edge.

When gluing surfaces with wallpaper or films, all processes are performed in a specific technological sequence

Instead of gluing the walls with paper waste, it is allowed to level the surfaces with solid putty. All wallpapers and films are glued with an overlap, with the exception of thick films or films with a pile.

Work on wallpapering and films consists of preparing adhesives, preparing wallpapers, preparing surfaces and gluing wallpapers.

Conclusion

Therefore, the conclusion is that - painting work should be performed by qualified craftsmen, professionals. In order for the desired result to be achieved, it is not necessary to carry out painting work at very low or very high temperatures; also, when carrying out painting work, high humidity should be avoided.

Painting work should only be carried out in compliance with safety rules. Carrying out painting work, always use a variety of combustible materials: paints, adhesives, mastics, etc. That is why, when carrying out painting work, special attention should be paid to issues related to occupational safety when working with similar materials, it is necessary to strictly observe company instructions and instructions.

Literature

1) Technology of molar works Belousov

2) Apartment renovation E.G. Zhukovsky

3) DIY painting by M.V. Kondrashov

4) Staining and pasting A.G. Lazarev

Posted on Allbest.ru

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Theme 4.2. Technology for repairing painted and glued surfaces.

1. Drawing up technological maps:

For the repair of painted surfaces with aqueous compounds;

For the repair of painted surfaces with non-aqueous compositions;

For the repair of surfaces glued with wallpaper.

criteria for evaluation.

An important part of the student’s independent work is the preparation and defense of essays, reports, projects, essays, tests and term papers.

Types of independent work in the study of any discipline are the preparation of a report, abstract, message or abstract. These works relate to written works.

1. Reports – is a verbal or written statement of a message to a specific

The report is prepared according to the following algorithm:

To select literature on this topic, get acquainted with its content.

Using bookmarks to mark the most significant places or make

Make a report outline.

Write a report plan, at the end of which you must express your

attitude to the topic and its content.

To issue in accordance with the requirements for the design of writing.

Sample report structure:

1. Title page

2. Explanatory note

3. Introduction

4. The text of the work

5. Conclusion.

3. List of used literature.

Abstract (from Latin refero - report, report), a summary in writing or in the form of a public presentation of the contents of the book, scientific work, the results of the study of a scientific problem; a report on a specific topic, including a review of relevant literary and other sources. As a rule, an abstract has a scientific and informational purpose.

In the process of working on the abstract, 4 stages can be distinguished:

Introductory - topic selection, work on the plan and introduction.

The main one is work on the content and conclusion of an abstract.

The final one is the abstract.

Defense of the abstract (on the exam, student conference, etc.)

Abstract structure:

Title page

Introduction: substantiation of the topic of the abstract, its relevance, significance; listing of issues addressed in the abstract; determination of goals and objectives of the work; review of sources and literature. Its volume is 1-3 pages.

Main part:the main part has a name, expressing the essence of the abstract, may consist of two or three sections, which also have a name. In the main part, the state of the issue under study is deeply and systematically described; conflicting opinions are given in various sources, which are analyzed and evaluated with particular care.

Conclusion (conclusions and suggestions): the results of the analysis of evolution and development trends of the issue are formulated; suggestions are given on how to address significant issues.

The volume of the conclusion is 2-3 pages.

When setting out the material, the following rules must be observed:

It is not recommended to narrate in the first person singular. One has to choose impersonal verb forms. For example, instead of the phrase “I’m conducting an experiment,” it’s better to write “an experiment I’ve done.”

When mentioning surnames in the text, it is mandatory to put initials in front of the surname.

The quote is given in the form in which it is given in the source and is enclosed in quotation marks on both sides.

Each chapter begins with a new page.

3. Abstract - it is a consistent, coherent presentation of the material of a book or article in accordance with its logical structure. The main part of the compendium is composed of abstracts, but evidence, facts and extracts, diagrams and tables, as well as the reader’s own notes on what they read are added to them. If the abstract consists of only extracts, it is called text abstract. This is the most “non-developing” type of abstract, since when compiling it, the student’s thought practically turns off from work, and the whole thing comes down to mechanical rewriting of the text. If the content of the read is presented mainly in the form of presentation, retelling is free abstract. If only one or several problems related to the topic, but not the entire content of the book, are distinguished as the main ones from the read, the thematic abstract.

Defects in stains made with lime and adhesive. Defects in this case are mainly from non-compliance with the technology of work. Most often, they can only be fixed with a complete alteration. Consider the causes of the formation of defects.

The grinding of the paint layer occurs because little glue was added to the prepared paint composition or chalk with large particles was used; not groce ^ ,. The prepared paint composition was prepared.

Peeling of the paint film can be caused by the following: a) the paint composition was too thick or was repeatedly applied to the same place; b) an excessive amount of glue is introduced; c) the painting was done with a thick layer of previously applied paint or with a weak putty.

Corrected by thorough shading of the applied composition with water using a brush. In this case, part of the coating is washed off. If this does not help, then you need to remove the entire layer of paint, grind the surface, prime and paint.

Translucidation of the previous paint layer is possible because a primer of a different color than the paint composition was used, or it was semi-opaque.

To fix the surface should be re-painted. If this does not help, then you will have to re-primer, using a pear, tinted under the paint layer.

Rusty spots are possible from prolonged flow through the plaster of water or from leakage of resinous substances through the plaster.

Corrected by eliminating the causes of the formation of rust spots, removing rusty plaster and replacing it with a new one. Another way is possible: to clean off the old paint, wash the surface with a warm 3% hydrochloric acid solution, dry it, paint it with oil paint (oil or alcohol varnish), prime and paint.

Greasy stains on the plaster come from non-drying stomach or mineral oils. Correction is possible only by cutting oiled spots of plaster, applying a new, thorough drying, oil painting the joints near the new plaster, priming and painting.

The efflorescence comes from the release of soluble salts by the surface, which form a white crystalline coating on the color or plaster. The efflorescences are removed by thoroughly drying and cleaning the surface with steel brushes, grinding the plaster, drying, painting the corrected place with oil paint, putty, primer and painting with glue paint.

“Nataski” can be when painting the surface without primer, or if the painting was carried out on the old paint, primed with a weak soil without shading.

To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the old plaque with water, and even better to clean, grind, primer and paint again.

Striping is possible from adding dry pigments to the paint composition, from poor mixing of the composition, uneven shading and pressure on the brush. Striping can be eliminated by thorough washing with water and staining with a liquid paint composition using a spray gun.

"Veins" arise when surfaces are not well primed (especially with embroidered cracks smeared with gypsum mortar) or because embroidered cracks are not sufficiently wiped. For correction, the paint layer should be washed out or completely removed, the surfaces should be well primed (the cracks should be primed twice) and painted. Correctly worn seams by rubbing them, priming and staining.

Folds are formed from the use of too thick (or too liquid) paint composition. The paint composition should be diluted to normal viscosity and repainted.

The rough texture of the coloration and the accumulation of small tubercles are possible because the grout was made with coarse-grained sand or the primer and the coating composition were applied unrefined. Corrected by washing or grinding the surface, priming and painting with a strained composition.

Spray, drips and passes. Sprays can be due to the nozzle’s hole being enlarged against the norm, leaks can occur due to the liquid paint composition or its uneven application, gaps can be caused by improper brush, roller, etc. Correction by washing the surface with water, priming and painting .

Marble-like spots arise from the use of a highly glued paint composition. Correction is possible by washing the paint layer and coloring (or priming and painting) with a normally sealed composition.

Joints are visible due to inept work with brushes, rollers, spray guns or when painting on a weak primer. You can fix it by flushing the surface with water and performing primer and painting.

The color change of the paint can occur as a result of the use of pigments that are not resistant to alkalis, light, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide. Corrected by washing off the applied paint, priming and staining using stable pigments.

A panel with uneven coloring may be due to improper pressure on the panel brush or excessively thick paint. An elongated panel should be redone.

The painted surface dries unevenly because a primer with a non-uniform strength was used and there were drafts. For correction, drafts should be eliminated and the correct preparation of the primer.

Defects in stains made with oil and enamel compositions.

Traces of the brush are visible when applying thick paint and not enough good shading. The dried paint is cleaned with pumice or sandpaper and again stained with the prepared paint composition.

Joints are noticeable because the painting was carried out by quick-drying paints with interruptions in the same place, i.e., several grips. To correct the work, several people redo the work, working simultaneously without a break. Docking should be near the pilasters, in the corners, etc.
Drips appear from the use of liquid paint, applied in abundance on the surface in abundance without sufficient shading. The dried paint is cleaned with a sandpaper or pumice and stained with a normal composition.

The rough texture of the painting can be from the use of non-filtered paint, painting on poorly executed putty or from its poor cleaning (polishing). The correction consists in a thorough cleaning of the painted surface with a sandpaper or pumice and re-painting.

"Crocodile skin" can be from applying quick-drying paint to an insufficiently dry preparation. Corrected by cleaning with sandpaper or pumice, pro-waxes, putty and staining.

Wrinkles on the color come from applying paint in a thick layer. Correction by stripping, filling and painting.

Rusty and dark spots are possible because tar and mineral oil stains were not removed during preparation. Correct by removing defective places or by thorough cleaning, washing with acids, alkalis, coating with two or three layers of alcohol varnish or nitro varnish and re-painting.

Different color spots with non-drying paint can occur when stained with dry paint. Correction - neutralization of alkali in it with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, washing with clean water, good drying, priming, puttying, painting with high-quality materials.

Peeling of the top layer of paint occurs when stained surfaces previously painted or waxed. Correction: remove loose paint, clean surfaces well with pumice or rinse with soapy and clean water, dry and paint.

Paint bloating is observed when painting poorly dried wooden surfaces.

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Theme 4.2. Technology for repairing painted and glued surfaces.