What to do: floor on lags or screed in an apartment on the ground floor
With your boiler - it's up to you how to arrange heating, so there should be no problem with the idea.
You didn’t understand a little about waterproofing. I meant that a layer of rough screed is made on gravel, waterproofing on it, then the rest of the layers. In your case, crushed stone "small-small" there is no need to protect the waterproofing. Just put 2 layers of waterproofing on the rubble, then a heater (preferably a semi-rigid miniplate, the thickness should be considered according to the heat engineering parameters), using Folgoizol on the top of the min of the slab will allow you to save a little on the thickness of the miniplate (at the price it is not yet known whether to save). According to the miniplite (foil insulation), it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing, which will already protect against the possible leakage of water from underfloor heating. Then arrange already the main screed in which you can place the pipes, immediately lay the net through the pipes. That is, it will turn out the Elimination-Waterproofing-Thermal Insulation-Waterproofing-Stitch (pipes and mesh in it) - if you need a leveling layer under the laminate (sometimes even under the tile). The bottom layer of waterproofing will have to be applied so that you do not have capillary moisture rising from the ground into the insulation.
Pipes and a grid must be laid on them either before pouring the screed onto the linings with a thickness of 15 mm or a 2-layer screed is made - first fill in a 30 mm screed (it can crack thinner), lay pipes, a grid on it, fill in a 2 layer with a thickness of 40 mm. Get a 15mm protective layer, should be enough.
Do not forget that the entire Warm floor, laid directly in the screed, should not have joints - that is, it is made of a continuous pipe of the appropriate length.
The use of EPS in this case (Extruded or extruded polystyrene foam) is justified. The floors in this case can not catch fire - removes most of the negative properties of EPS. At the same time, the EPPS is moisture-resistant - 1 layer of waterproofing is not required. It will also be possible to get away from the 2nd layer by gluing all the joints of the EPPS sheets and arranging waterproofing strips with an institution 200 mm along the walls and 1 meter per EPPS sheets along the contour of the premises. Moreover, it is cheaper than all of the listed thermal insulation.
Another important point. About tile glue, I already told you above. Forgot to mention that by warm floors between the tile distance should be greater than with conventional floors and it is better to fill it with special joints.
Also, do not forget that the screed should not come close to the walls - a gap of 2 cm on all sides is required. The gap is filled with special ribbons. This will allow to perceive the temperature expansion of the screed. Well, sound insulation is improved. It is also worth putting a temperature regulator (the easiest manual one) at the input so that you can regulate the temperature.
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tell me, please, how best to mount the floor? The apartment is on the ground floor, doing repairs in the room. He took off the old wooden floor on the logs (sand under it). A decent layer of sand. Room 2.30m at 4.60m.
Answer
Well, it's best to do as expected! :) And first you need to determine the type of floor and the desired height of the room. Perhaps you want the height of the room to be greater. True, in this case, it is necessary to take into account the adjacent premises, as well as the floor in the entrance. You may need a step.
There are two main types of floors:, and solid, on a concrete base. First option - brick posts, waterproofing, laying logs, and finally, the final plank floor (or rough, followed by finish, say). If the sand layer is significant, then the columns can be laid directly on the sand base, making sure that the sand is sufficiently compacted. If necessary, seal it by spilling it with water and / or tamping (rolling). You can remove the sand, mount the columns on the base under the sand, and replace the sand with filling insulation. You can take a look at the insulation of the floor along the logs.
It can be done in another way, it will be cheaper: screed on beacons (5 cm thick, preferably reinforced with galvanized wire mesh with a mesh of 50x50 mm). On a coupler a laminate or with a basis. Before installing the screed, adjoin the adjoining walls and floor with a backfill heater or min. plate type "ROKWOOL", insulation strip width 800-1000 mm, along outer wall. Thickness 10 cm. Insulate the insulation with top waterproofing and bottom with vapor barrier.
If specific questions arise in the process, ask. Additionally, you can look in the literature, for example, brochure I.A. Kolesnikov's “Floors” (M. Eksmo 2008). There are many other books online, for the most part they repeat each other, so the difference is small.
klyepan 23-03-2013 09:02
Actually the question was in the subject. I took an apartment the day before yesterday in a new house. All floors cracked. As it turned out later on in the whole house. And in other houses the same story. I want to dismantle everything that they poured and do it myself. Tell me how to correctly, provided that the 1st floor and the basement will most likely be cold.
Gee 23-03-2013 09:44
Cutting needs to be done. And do not shift the cement. In difficult places, you can put a steel stucco mesh type of notch thickness of about 1 mm. Finishing floors what will be?
klyepan 23-03-2013 12:16
There is linoleum in the room. In the kitchen, in the hallway corridor there is tile. Cuttings? Is it a square-nested small hole to cut out? Type to connect the screed to the concrete floor?
mukdiver 23-03-2013 12:37
Thickness what kind of screed? pipes otp. Where?
klyepan 23-03-2013 12:44
Pipes near the window. Thickness I don’t know what even didn’t get to gouge it somewhere. What optimal hollow is needed at all. Yes, they heard they put some polystyrene for insulation. What should I put?
klyepan 23-03-2013 12:46
Gentlemen, engineers, it doesn’t matter what and how our builders did. I know what they did poorly. How to do it right? Data 1st floor basement I think it will be cold.
mukdiver 23-03-2013 13:06
See the exact thickness, then it will be clear. Go to the basement, look what's under you, if the ventilation window is not zer buzzing. Warming from the basement is best, but most likely will not be allowed. PES will most likely be necessary if you are not worried about the evaporation of polystyrene. If you are worried, you will need to think there are options, but very expensive. And under the tile you still have to throw underfloor heating, it is cold in itself.
klyepan 23-03-2013 14:42
I walked around the basement around the gaping hole. I counted four iron doors that are not insulated. The wind walks. It doesn’t roll expensively and is all in debt loans. Is it warming from the basement? I won’t pay attention to resolution. In detail, what is PES? Yes I want the floor warm, but the room.
carrier 23-03-2013 16:01
I want to dismantle everything that they poured and do it myself.
And why? If it is normally held, is not it easier to just insulate and level? Even better to make a warm floor.
klyepan 23-03-2013 16:25
Last year a floor was dismantled from a friend. On top, it looked like a hard crust, but inside it mostly broke sand with a heel. That is, if it failed somewhere, then it went. Although it seems to hold on.
carrier 23-03-2013 18:39
quote: Originally posted by klyepan:
.In detail on the specifics, what is the PES? Yes, I want the floor warm, but the room.
You need to do this and that. Well, or a link if you have already written this.
There is everything on YouTube
si1v3r 23-03-2013 18:40
If the cracks are thin and nothing sways, then it is better not to redo it.
TAURUS 23-03-2013 20:54
if the screed does not “coarse” prime and pour on top with a self-leveling bulk mixture ... select the lenolium warmer, or put the substrate under it like under a laminate .. I think at least that’s enough ... IMHO ....
Generalisimus Stalin 23-03-2013 22:43
Shoot everything down x ......... put the beacons up to the slabs, make a screed of at least 10 cm, and immediately if the first floor put the underfloor heating (water) First the water system is assembled, the warm floor Then the beacons and screed 10-12 cm And in any frost on the floor you will walk barefoot ............ Only there is one nuance if the floor is warm, then the coating is on top or tiles under the tree or ceramic granite ............ ALL not a laminate no parquet stolen and especially not linoleum
FED 24-03-2013 01:10
Previously, on the first floor, a parquet board was always placed on KMD-S glue, on the MDF board M-1 (M-2, M-3), which was glued to hot bitumen and so solved the issue of steam and noise heat insulation.
Two fiberboard boards with a thickness of 20 mm with a spacing of seams, bitumen can be ignored and a parquet board with a thickness of 15-20 mm. Total 55-60mm.
And now economically disadvantageous. Garbage - count yourself.
If you put an extrusion insulation, then you need an M100 screed (preferably M150) with a thickness of at least 40-50 mm otherwise it can crack. The grid is optional, since the base is not loose, but a separation film of 80-100 microns will not hurt. So consider how thick the floor will turn out.
Insulation min 50mm, screed max 50mm, adhesive with linoleum 10mm (rough).
Total 110mm. You thresholds and doorways will allow?
P.S. Underfloor heating Basement heated? The dew point is already in the floor slab (at the upper edge), an increase in temperature on the floor surface will move the point toward the basement, which, in the presence of cold moist air and lack of ventilation, is fraught with condensation directly on the lower border of the floor slab, where the slab reinforcement belt is located. Do you need it?
Generalisimus Stalin 24-03-2013 01:36
quote: Originally posted by FED:
Underfloor heating
since the pipes are not laid on concrete, the foil heat insulation is laid first and then the pipes ................. Well, I don’t know how everything works fine in the high-rises in my private house The floors are fried so that the battery on the first floor is turned off cleanly in half
FED 24-03-2013 01:42
So you probably have the basement ventilated or warmer, because condensation cannot be noticed.
In the variant, when it is a public cold basement, and not technical with a temperature of + 8 dash + 10 * C, the condensate is rushing
Wet (wet) conducts cold better - cold rises to a warm room and you need more heat to warm it.
Circle closed
P.S. It’s immediately obvious that you are not German. When leaving home for work, they turn off the heating. Heating automatically turns on an hour before it arrives from work
Mityan 24-03-2013 10:27
klyepan, but is there a photo? maybe there’s nothing wrong.
natalia_vw 24-03-2013 11:00
uuuu ... they say the first floors are very cold floors .. then the last one is better .. I have the fifth floor as it was .. Dubak .. but not floors at least ..
natalia_vw 24-03-2013 11:01
if I collided with the first floor .. well, you never know how it happens .. it probably raised the floors to wooden beams ..
klyepan 24-03-2013 11:36
I didn’t think about the photo. Since I didn’t sign the delivery plan for them. I didn’t give the keys. Well, the whole area is cracked every half meter. The thickness is about 2-3 mm. I broke my whole head either on top of it. Like and screed in level. Whether to break everything and do it all over again. With the foreman agreed to break everything on Friday, he threatened to start on Monday. If you haven’t already broken, there is a chance to stop the process.
klyepan 24-03-2013 11:50
Well, in general, break your special and don’t think the issue has been resolved. I will be primed, reinforced with a fine mesh, then the screed is already flooded with liquid cement.
klyepan 24-03-2013 16:13
Well, at the first stage. I asked the superintendent to dismantle the floor. And promised to sign all the documents. So I think the problem is solved with the dismantling as well as with garbage disposal. And then, if I'm interested, I can write with photos and estimates not the only one. Honestly three was in a stupor. With money tight. On the one hand, do nothing. On the other hand, redo when the floor begins to crumble in 2-3 years when the furniture is standing and the wallpaper is pasted, something doesn’t seem to me at all.
Generalisimus Stalin 25-03-2013 12:24
quote: Originally posted by mura-nsk:
Volume and cost of work
i have a warm floor (there are pipes the heat transfer pump that is laid on the floor and then pipes and then a screed) well, work on the first floor there is 270 m. 125,000
klyepan 25-03-2013 07:40
Oh damn you seem to be controlling it from an infrared sensor. A separate boiler with a pump. I will only do 9.8sq.m in the kitchen.
TAURUS 25-03-2013 13:02
quote: Well, in general, break your special
Mityan 25-03-2013 13:13
It is necessary to reinforce the mesh so that there are no cracks. And so work for two days.
si1v3r 25-03-2013 14:42
quote: Originally posted by TAURUS:
The main thing is that the newly-laid screed also does not crack with cracks is a common thing for screeds, well, few people lay screeds, with a bat you have to stand on hard workers so that water does not overflow or something else
And you still need to water the screed for several days as it dries. Otherwise, even a well-made crack will go.
klyepan 25-03-2013 15:33
today I was in the apartment. The thickness of the screed was about 7 cm. I made the phone by phone
klyepan 25-03-2013 15:37
quote: with a bat it is necessary to stand above the workers so that the waters do not overflow or or something else
You have Uzbeks in Moscow in Moscow. And we in the rest of the country, Russia, do it yourself. On the other hand, do not have ice. Uzbek takes at least 500 rubles a day. I earn 1000.
Mityan 25-03-2013 16:37
Remove the screed ...
Mityan 25-03-2013 16:41
quote: Originally posted by klyepan:
At you in Moscow Uzbeks Kazakhs ..
And he is not from Moscow
TAURUS 25-03-2013 17:31
i wouldn’t take pictures .... nothing criminal in the picture .... sweep ... primer ... on top of the bulk floor ... IMHO ... not the fact that you will do better ... crack starts in the second week .. .a by this time, hard workers can not be found who messed up ...
plus removing the screed is still a pleasure ...
ps I’m not from Moskvabad .... sn less than that of an Uzbek .... so I’m driving myself with a repair ...
klyepan 25-03-2013 18:07
I’m watching the penny itself. On the whole, it’s like nothing criminal. But I asked the superintendents of my friends to take off the floor, otherwise I’ll start swimming underfoot in a year or two. Now I’ll bring one to my place. took (an old friend) You look and he will tell me what.
Winston7 25-03-2013 18:10
there was the same crap in an apartment in 2 rooms.
the height difference from the hall to the bedroom was 7.5 cm.
broke it in a day with a small puncher, beat off the level with a level, set up lighthouses, filled it.
now my apartment has a perfectly flat floor and curved walls and ceilings. :-)
TAURUS 25-03-2013 18:20
if it is firmly connected with the base, does not bight, then such cracks are not dangerous ... they appear from improper drying or poor solution ....
confuse the hard workers .... they are interested persons ... more work more salary ... IMHO ..
Jfk 25-03-2013 18:47
On the ground floor it is better to make a “floating” screed with a thickness of 4-6 cm, with mandatory reinforcement with a mesh (iron with a step of 5 by 5 cm or 10 by 10 cm). In order not to mess with vapor barrier, it is better to put a material like Penoplex under the screed - it makes it possible to do without vapor barrier. For yourself, it is better to make the floor with ready-made mixtures, such as ceresit cn 178. Well, do not forget about compensatory joints.
FED 25-03-2013 20:26
Cracks on the surface of the screed, with or without a mesh, will be unambiguous, no matter how and whoever makes it. Workers sometimes dissemble and sweep the floor, dusting the cracks with dust, which makes them invisible.
Another thing is that they will not be deep (not through), therefore it is advisable to grout the surface of the screed with cement milk, or with dry cement (finish ironing) under the finish finish. The need to choose the finish of the screed depends on what will be the finishing decorative layer (carpet, linoleum, cork, laminate, parquet).
Another way is to add PVA emulsion to the solution (according to the instructions), only the solution should be sufficiently liquid, the screed is not too thick to 20-30 mm, and the room, while the screed is dry, is not ventilated, and it is made on a rigid (concrete) base.
mukdiver 25-03-2013 23:55
quote: Cracks on the surface of the screed, with or without a mesh, will be unambiguous, no matter how and whoever makes it.
You read - everyone is so sleevey, people have been working at a construction site for 20 years, and they can't really make a coupler. You can do anything yourself. But where to get the water level, not to mention the level, where to get the mixer, the container for kneading, as a rule, at the worst, drag 5-6 tons of material, and all one, and all one ... And you will do the underfloor heating yourself too ?
Jfk 26-03-2013 04:49
quote: Originally posted by mukdiver:
... people for 20 years at a construction site ....
They have different tasks - faster and cheaper.
of course you can’t do one, but two or three are already possible. It is better not to get in touch with the water level. You can rent a nevilir, or without it, make lighthouses on the screws and set the level by thread.
I did it myself without a nivilir - it turned out smoothly and without cracks ;-)
Gee 26-03-2013 07:03
The “one-time” water level costs a penny, a Chinese laser about 2 sput, a level and a tripod can be found
klyepan 26-03-2013 07:48
quote: 70mm and more on the stove? You read - all of them are sleeveless, people have been working at a construction site for 20 years, they can't really make a coupler. You can do anything yourself. But where to get the water level, not to mention the level, where to get the mixer, the container for kneading, as a rule, at the worst, drag 5-6 tons of material, and all one, and all one ... And you will do the underfloor heating yourself too ?
70mm further the material, as I understand, the vapor barrier under it is polystyrene. (It is probed with the fingers under the material. In the photo, I gouged a patch) As if they had been working for 20 years. siphonite from the windows. The batteries are one disappointment. And the principle of the heating system is working. Hot water rises to the 9th floor. From there it goes down through the batteries. I have the first floor. The mixer is easy to drill Bosch 2-ka. I can buy a can from a paint 30 liter. Well I’ve seen in the store. Already with level l I won’t bother with the nuclear ones now, the level is almost normal on it and I will be guided by the strip that remains on the wall. Well, no one has canceled the usual level. Yes, on the count of one, there are people helping, in the village they did a lot of things, including pouring .And by the way, many may wonder if you stupidly need to cover the flooded floor with a film and everything is smooth like cat eggs. And I will do the warm floors myself. And what to do there? It's easier than a turnip. I’m a hard worker myself. Repair of refrigeration equipment installing kondeev. Yes, let slowly but I will.
Gee 26-03-2013 07:57
Then pour it after the heating is turned off
klyepan 26-03-2013 08:37
There is an option to wait when it gets warmer on the street. Spring this year will come soon I hope. Many do not need +5 or higher at least.
TAURUS 26-03-2013 09:24
I poured myself with my father, beat off the lighthouses along the cord and the water level, vacuumed the floors well, doubled the primer, and began to fill in 1.2m stripes. just according to the size of the rule ... the solution was kneaded with a conventional drill with a mixer, in buckets of putty of 30 liters. He turned off the heating .... watered ... 6 years have already passed ... everything is fine ... there were cracks, a couple of weeks later, but after mashing with milk they did not appear ...
Winston7 26-03-2013 09:31
"" about. But where to get the water level without saying
already level, where to get the mixer, the capacity for
kneading, as a rule, at worst, pull 5-6 tons.
material, and all one, and all one ... ""
what's the problem? :-)
a tool for rent is given at every corner.
i bought a capacity for 300 rubles in the operation of a hypermarket.
the material was delivered for 200 rubles, nearby I took a wheelbarrow from the finishers, and I drove everything on it by elevator myself.
I took out 30 bags of an old coupler and loaded them into a gazelle in about an hour. ;-)
Apavel 27-03-2013 15:47
quote: Originally posted by Generalimus Stalin:
And immediately if the first floor put the underfloor heating (water) First, the water system is going to warm floor
In Moscow, the installation of heated water floors in apartment buildings is prohibited. I think that the rest of the country cunning neighbors may ask why in the riser such heat consumption for heating
TSU - once made an adjustable floor, it is possible on lags, you can just have several layers of plywood, the decision was made according to the results of calculations, from which it turned out that the screed is more expensive (10 years ago it was a deal). In your case, if you remove the old screed and use logs or plywood, the selected distance is formed between the stove and the rough flooring, in which you can put insulation from mines of cotton wool or something else
Mityan 27-03-2013 19:12
quote: Originally posted by APavel:
the selected distance between the slab and the rough floor is formed,
In which the neighbors of the TS will live very well - mice, rats and other animals from the basement. Which will be very difficult to erase from there.
Apavel 27-03-2013 20:09
quote: mice, rats and other animals from the basement.
Then the floor made for 10 years does not even contain cockroaches, although in addition to sanitary facilities everywhere under the plywood layer a few centimeters, even in the kitchen. And it seems to me that from the point of view of these neighbors, it is easier to use ventilation and other ways, and live in a warmer layer on the floor.
We want to make waterproofing the floor. We live on the ground floor in an old prefabricated house, the apartment is located above a cold and damp basement. At first the chipboard was stained, but because of the dampness, this coating began to rot. We have heard that using bitumen is technologically inconvenient, and mastics are toxic and have a too stable odor that disappears only a few weeks after they are applied. Please tell us what materials for waterproofing exist, and what are the technologies for their installation? In particular, I would like to know how best to waterproof the bathroom? Do I need to order a project and should I contact the housing inspectorate to carry out repairs legally?
Dmitry, Moscow
Ground floor apartments are often located above basements with high humidity. Moisture enters the apartment through the ceiling and through the walls, rising from the ground along the foundation. If the flooring is not provided with sufficient waterproofing, condensation on the basement ceiling, which is adjacent to your apartment, may also be the cause of damage to the floor covering. Such a neighborhood often entails not only damage to everything that is subject to rot, but also the appearance of fungus and other organisms that destroy the material. In addition, raw air is simply unhealthy. Humidity causes corrosion of concrete and metal structural elements, and frozen water, increasing in volume, is able to damage even high-strength material.
Waterproofing can be difficult and requires the help of professionals who can correctly determine the causes of moisture, detect the channels of its penetration and make a correct calculation of the upcoming work.
The designer draws up a report, which describes the state of the apartment, and makes its expert assessment. If the floor construction does not change, and it is only planned to replace the insulation and the screed device, it will not be necessary to draw up a draft or sketch and coordinate it with the housing inspection. Usually law-abiding citizens turn to the management organization that draws up the act of hidden work, but if you live on the ground floor and you don’t have anyone to fill in, this document is unlikely to ever come in handy.
There are several ways to protect against moisture. For floors, the most commonly used is gluing and coating waterproofing. When installing them, the base (floor slab) must be cleaned of dirt, efflorescence and collapsing concrete layers, repair cracks, smooth and ground the surface with bituminous mastics or polymer-based solutions. To level the base, it is best to use self-leveling mixtures with the ability to spread evenly over the surface to be poured. To avoid unpleasant odors, it is advisable not to use mastic on a solvent. Cracks are stitched and sealed, for example, with a waterproofing plaster composition. Putty is applied on top. The waterproofing coating should cover not only the floor, but also go on the walls (10-20 cm), so they also need to be prepared accordingly.
Bitumen or other deposited materials are applied to the surface using special equipment.
It is carried out in the following sequence: first, primers are applied to the prepared surface, then materials are glued in layers, joints are processed by welding or gluing, and the drying process of the glued coating is completed.
Glued waterproofing is applied at a temperature of air, materials and protected surfaces not lower than + 10 ° С. The exception is elastomeric (EPOM) and thermoplastic materials (RUS, NDRE). EPOM is a vulcanized rubber based on a copolymer of ethylene, propylene and diene monomer and is laid with adhesives. The elasticity of the material increases if it is not glued to the entire surface, but only at the joints of the membranes. Thermoplastic materials are attached to special plastic mortgages using hot air.
Primers are applied in two layers. The readiness of the first layer of bitumen primers is determined by the cast method - a tampon is applied to the bitumen, and if there are no traces on it, it is believed that the mixture has dried. Drying the second layer takes no more than 1-2 hours. Drying the first layer of primers on synthetic adhesives takes 40-60 minutes, the second - until the tack. The layer of bitumen mastic should not exceed 3 mm, on adhesives - 1 mm. Drying of polymer and bitumen-polymer primers is carried out before tack.
Before the sticker, the roll materials should be cleaned of mineral sprinkling, and the sheet materials should be washed with soapy and clean water (plastic compound - degreased with acetone). Then the materials are dried and cut into blanks. The plates of polyisobutylene, Butylcor-S, reinforced polyvinyl chloride film must be kept in a straightened state for at least 24 hours, the polyvinyl chloride plastic compound should be heated to a temperature of 60 ° C. The amount of overlap varies depending on the material. For example, polyvinyl chloride plastic compound can be glued butt-on, and the recommended overlap for duplicated polyethylene, hydroisol, polyisobutylene plates on bitumen, roofing material, glass-roofing material is 100 mm. The joints are welded in a stream of heated air at a temperature of 200 ± 15 ° C by rolling the weld. Glued plastic blanks must be cured before subsequent processing for at least 2 hours. Protective coatings made from roll materials glued on bituminous compositions should be puttied with bituminous mastics with a thickness of not more than 10 mm. If the cement screed will be arranged for waterproofing, its surface should be rubbed over a layer of non-cooled bituminous mastic or synthetic resins with coarse quartz sand. Before performing facing or lining works, a putty prepared from the same materials as the binder is applied to the coating. The okleeknaya waterproofing is not designed for constant shear and tensile loads and must be protected by a reinforced concrete screed.
Estimated cost of bitumen roll materials (roll - 9 sq. M)
At a low cost of materials, waterproofing from roll materials has many drawbacks - high complexity, the smell of bitumen, the need to use a burner for gluing rolls and screed devices that increase the floor level.
Cold mastics, which are an aqueous emulsion paste of bitumen with a mineral filler, are applied with a layer thickness of 0.5-7 mm using brushes or injection units. Each subsequent layer is performed after the previous one has dried after 4-24 hours. Its readiness is determined by tack. The coating thickness of cold mastics is usually 5-25 mm.
Hot mastics are distinguished by the fact that they can be used with a plasticizer and reinforced with fiberglass meshes, which makes it possible to protect reinforced concrete with an estimated crack opening of up to 2 mm. They are applied by spill at a temperature of 150-200 ° C in layers of 5-7 mm thickness.
Mastics are convenient to use in rooms of complex shape, but such waterproofing is short-lived and involves the installation of screeds.
When applying waterproofing coatings on an inorganic basis, the materials are applied by gunning (layer-by-layer application of the mixture under the pressure of compressed air created by the cement gun) and plastering.
Insulation from cement-sand mortars with sealing additives can be done either manually or by shotcrete. Sealing additives are ferric chloride, cement-latex coatings, bituminous pastes and emulsions, various polymers. The composition of the mixture includes waterproof expanding and non-shrinkable cements, the layers of which are laid every half hour, as well as cement with sealing additives (the time interval between application of the layers is one day). Materials are applied to a damp surface. Humidification of the insulation is carried out by sprayed water an hour after application and every three hours during the day if it consists of waterproof cements. If the mixture consists of cement with sealing additives, moistening should be done 2-3 times a day for 14 days. The mixture is not recommended for laying on surfaces subject to deformation due to shrinkage, increased mechanical stresses, and on substrates made of wood, gypsum, asbestos cement, and also on painted surfaces.
Estimated cost of mastics for hot and cold use
| Name of product | Application area | Price rub / kg |
Hot application mastics: |
||
| Mastic bituminous and rubber insulating MBR65, MBR75, MBR90, MBR100 GOST-15836-79 | Mastic is designed to isolate underground steel pipelines and other structures in order to protect them from soil corrosion | 37,5 |
| Mastic frost-resistant bituminous MB 70 / 60GOST-6997-77 | Mastic is intended for filling of connecting, branch and end couplings and terminations of power and control cables | 37,5 |
| Roofing mastic MBKG-55, MBKG-65, MBKG-75, MBKG-85. MBKG-100 GOST-2889-80 | Mastic is intended for the device of mastic roofs and bonding of soft roofing materials | 42,5 |
| Hot asphalt mastic TU 2384-002-24237882-01 | Mastic is intended for work on cast asphalt waterproofing | 32,5 |
Cold application mastics: |
||
| Mastic bituminous cold (primer) MB -V TU2384-001-24237882-01 | Mastic is intended for vapor barrier, waterproofing of building structures | 44,75 |
| Mastic rubber-bitumen MRB -X TU2384-001-24237882-01 | Mastic is intended for roofing, as well as for waterproofing coatings of underground and ground building structures | 44,75 |
| Mastic polymer-bitumen MBH-U TU 2384-001-24237882-01 | Mastic is intended for waterproofing roofing, as well as for gluing parquet, particleboard, plywood, linoleum, etc. | 55 |
| Building sealing sealing mastic for interpanel seams MGS-MGOST-14791-79 | Mastic is intended for sealing closed and drained joints of external walls and for sealing the junction of window and door blocks | 75,6 |
The material fills the pores and micro-voids of concrete with water-insoluble compounds formed as a result of the reaction of cement with active chemical components, and presents an insurmountable barrier to water. The composition is diluted in the ratio of 0.625 liters of water per 1 kg of dry mixture and is applied with a brush with hard bristles to a wet surface in two layers with a thickness of 2-3 mm. For the same purposes, a pneumopulverizer is often used. The layer thickness with this method of application is 1 -1.5 mm The second layer is applied 2-4 hours after the first on its moistened surface. Seams can be sealed with sealants. Currently, silicone and polyurethane sealants are used to seal joints. They differ in curing mechanism and in the content of fillers.
The most common are acidic sealants. They can not be used with metals, marble and materials containing cement, since acid enters into a chemical reaction with them, causing them to quickly corrode. They are toxic, and after their use the room must be carefully ventilated. Neutral sealants are less toxic and suitable for all surfaces.
Estimated cost of penetrating waterproofing
The waterproofing of the bathroom floor in terms of design, composition and method of the device is practically no different from the waterproofing of the rest of the floor. The only difference is that it is more advisable to use sanitary sealants in bathrooms and toilets. They have a silicone base and 5-10% consist of organic extenders and fungicides that prevent the formation of black mold at the joints. Such sealants are used when sealing joints near plumbing, which has a smoother surface than cement mortars, so their adhesive properties are much higher than other sealants.
A. Filimonov
Building season No. 35 (466)